{"id":3380,"date":"2019-10-28T10:41:28","date_gmt":"2019-10-28T10:41:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/?p=3380"},"modified":"2020-04-26T19:47:15","modified_gmt":"2020-04-26T19:47:15","slug":"vlad-capusan-zsolt-torok-era-un-mic-print-intr-un-univers-pe-care-si-l-a-creat-chiar-el","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2019\/10\/28\/vlad-capusan-zsolt-torok-era-un-mic-print-intr-un-univers-pe-care-si-l-a-creat-chiar-el\/","title":{"rendered":"Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: Zsolt Torok era ca „Micul Prin\u021b” \u00eentr-un univers pe care \u0219i l-a creat chiar el"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an este t\u00e2n\u0103rul pe care Zsolt Torok l-a luat sub aripa sa. Chiar dac\u0103 \u00eentre ei a fost o diferen\u021b\u0103 mare de v\u00e2rst\u0103, dragostea de munte i-a legat pe via\u021b\u0103. \u00cempreun\u0103 au realizat, \u00een Himalaya (2016), dou\u0103 premiere na\u0163ionale \u015fi o premier\u0103 mondial\u0103. Cei doi au fost primii oameni care au ajuns pe V\u00e2rful Peak 5 din regiunea Makalu, un munte \u00eenalt de 6.421 de metri, care nu a mai fost urcat de nimeni p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een acel moment, \u00een condi\u0163iile \u00een care v\u00e2rful a fost deschis ascensiunii \u00een 2003.  Zsolt \u0219i Vlad sunt \u0219i primii  alpini\u015fti din Rom\u00e2nia care au reu\u0219it (2018) ascensiunea faimosului v\u00e2rf patagonian Cerro Torre.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ascensiune pe Peak 5
sursa: www.torok.ro<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zsolt Torok, n\u0103scut la Arad \u00een 29 septembrie 1973, a fost unul dintre cei mai buni alpini\u0219ti tehnici din Rom\u00e2nia. Printre realiz\u0103rile sale se num\u0103r\u0103 Trilogia Alpilor, care cuprinde Peretele Nordic Eiger, Matterhorn \u0219i Grandes Jorasses \u0219i expedi\u021bia Nanga Parbat, ruta Schell, \u00een premier\u0103 rom\u00e2neasc\u0103.<\/strong> El a murit \u00een luna august a acestui an, \u00een timpul unei ascensiuni solitare pe Muchia Fier\u0103str\u0103u din apropierea v\u00e2rfului Negoiu din Mun\u021bii F\u0103g\u0103ra\u0219.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: Cum \u0219i \u00een ce \u00eemprejur\u0103ri l-ai cunoscut pe Zsolt Torok?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vlad Capusan<\/strong>: Pe Zsolt Torok l-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit prima dat\u0103, a\u0219a cum e \u0219i firesc, pe munte. \u00cemi aduc aminte c\u0103 \u00eent\u00e2mplarea face c\u0103 ne-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit chiar la refugiul C\u0103l\u021bun din Mun\u021bii F\u0103g\u0103ra\u0219. Eu pe vremea aceea aveam vreo 14-15 ani, era iarn\u0103 \u0219i m\u0103 aflam acolo cu un amic de-al meu. Am fost impresionat din prima de Zsolt \u0219i de experien\u021ba pe care el o avea, iar din acel moment a devenit un model pentru mine. Evident, expedi\u021biile pe care el le-a desf\u0103\u0219urat ulterior au fost at\u00e2t de reprezentative,  \u00eenc\u00e2t chiar m-a inspirat \u0219i mi-am dorit mult s\u0103-l cunosc. \u00cen 2016, la \u00eenceputul anului, ne-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit la Gala Alpinismului Rom\u00e2nesc, o gal\u0103 organizat\u0103 chiar de el. Acolo ne-am cunoscut mai bine \u0219i dup\u0103 ni\u0219te discu\u021bii am hot\u0103r\u00e2t s\u0103 mergem \u0219i \u00een prima expedi\u021bie \u00eempreun\u0103.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: \u00cen toat\u0103 aceast\u0103 perioad\u0103, p\u00een\u0103 \u00een 2016, v-a\u021bi mai \u00eent\u00e2lnit?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Vlad Capusan<\/strong>: Da, ne-am mai \u00eent\u00e2lnit pe munte, ne-am rev\u0103zut \u0219i la ni\u0219te prezent\u0103ri pe care el le-a f\u0103cut prin Cluj \u0219i prin alte ora\u0219e dar nu am avut o rela\u021bie foarte apropiat\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een momentul \u00een care am pl\u0103nuit o expedi\u021bie \u00eempreun\u0103. Oricum, eu nici nu m\u0103 g\u00e2ndeam c\u0103 el, fiind mai \u00een v\u00e2rst\u0103, va face echip\u0103 cu mine \u0219i c\u0103 vom rezona at\u00e2t de bine. Era o diferen\u021b\u0103 de aproape 14 ani \u00eentre noi \u0219i atunci nu-mi puteam imagina c\u0103 vom putea urca \u00eempreun\u0103 ni\u0219te v\u00e2rfuri at\u00e2t de frumoase.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: C\u00e2te expedi\u021bii a\u021bi f\u0103cut \u00eempreun\u0103?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Vlad Capusan: <\/strong>Pot s\u0103 spun c\u0103 din 2016 \u00eencoace, am f\u0103cut cam c\u00e2te 2 expedi\u021bii pe an.  \u00cen Himalaya am fost pe 5 v\u00e2rfuri \u00eempreun\u0103. Am \u00eenceput cu v\u00e2rful Cholatse, un v\u00e2rf tehnic, reprezentativ\u2026 a fost o epopee acolo deoarece condi\u021biile au fost foarte dificile \u0219i atunci pot spune c\u0103 l-am cunoscut cu adev\u0103rat pe Zsolt. Stilul lui \u0219i felul \u00een care iubea muntele m-au impresionat \u0219i asta m-a f\u0103cut s\u0103 cred c\u0103 putem urca multe v\u00e2rfuri \u00eempreun\u0103. Dup\u0103 aceea a urmat o expedi\u021bie pe v\u00e2rful Peak 5, care a reprezentat o premier\u0103 mondial\u0103, iar apoi au urmat \u0219i alte planuri,  multe trasee \u00een Cheile Turzii, \u00een Bucegi, antrenament, \u00eent\u00e2lniri chiar \u0219i doar pentru o discu\u021bie sau detalierea unui plan. De\u0219i distan\u021ba dintre Arad \u0219i Cluj este destul de mare, \u00een weekenduri sau chiar \u0219i \u00een timpul s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2nii ne \u00eent\u00e2lneam \u0219i puneam cap la cap planurile pentru urm\u0103toarea expedi\u021bie.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    Dan Izvoreanu: Care a fost cea mai recent\u0103 \u00eent\u00e2lnire, \u00eenainte de tragicul accident \u00een care Zsolt \u0219i-a pierdut via\u021ba?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

     Vlad Capusan: <\/strong>Cea mai recent\u0103 a fost chiar \u00een Cheile Turzii. A fost o ie\u0219ire \u00een care ne-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit, am r\u00e2s \u00eempreun\u0103, ne-am reamintit de experien\u021bele pe care le-am tr\u0103it. E frumos s\u0103 rememorezi toate aventurile prin care am trecut. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

      Evident, ultima expedi\u021bie pe care am f\u0103cut-o \u00eempreun\u0103 a fost cea de pe Cerro Torre din America de Sud. A fost cumva o expedi\u021bie care ne-a \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat pe am\u00e2ndoi c\u0103 putem face lucruri mari, at\u00e2t timp c\u00e2t avem  dorin\u021ba \u0219i sufletul pentru a atinge obiective mari. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Ulterior, Zsolt a mers \u00eentr-un proiect pe care \u0219i noi l-am \u00eencercat \u00een 2017, pe v\u00e2rful Pumori \u0219i de aceast\u0103 dat\u0103 chiar a reu\u0219it s\u0103 ajung\u0103 pe v\u00e2rf, cu Teo Vlad \u0219i Romic\u0103 Popa, iar pentru mine a fost o bucurie extraordinar\u0103, fiindc\u0103 chiar dac\u0103 nu am fost acolo, am sim\u021bit c\u0103 se \u00eencheie un capitol foarte frumos, un v\u00e2rf pe care eu mi l-am dorit foarte mult \u0219i odat\u0103 cu ascensiunea lor am sim\u021bit c\u0103 \u0219i eu am urcat acolo sus.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
      • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

        Dan Izvoreanu: Ce po\u021bi spune c\u0103 ai \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat de la Zsolt? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Vlad Capusan: <\/strong>Uff, cred c\u0103 \u00een primul r\u00e2nd am \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat s\u0103 fiu un om modest. Indiferent de c\u00e2t\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103 ai avea \u0219i oric\u00e2t ai fi de cunoscut \u00een aceast\u0103 comunitate alpin\u0103, e important s\u0103 fii modest \u0219i s\u0103 fii smerit \u00een fa\u021ba mun\u021bilor. Indiferent c\u00e2t de experimentat e\u0219ti, \u00een final e\u0219ti doar o furnic\u0103 \u00eentr-un ocean \u00eenghe\u021bat \u0219i cred c\u0103 Zsolt a \u0219tiut \u00eentotdeauna asta \u0219i el a fost \u00eentotdeauna \u00eendr\u0103gostit de mun\u021bi \u00eenal\u021bi. A fost \u00eentotdeauna \u00eendr\u0103gostit de aventur\u0103 \u0219i a fost un om care nu putea sta dou\u0103 zile la r\u00e2nd \u00een cas\u0103, ci trebuia s\u0103 ias\u0103, trebuia s\u0103 simt\u0103 c\u0103 tr\u0103ie\u0219te \u0219i cum cineva spunea, \u201cla final nu conteaz\u0103 anii din via\u021ba ta, ci via\u021ba din anii t\u0103i\u201d. Zsolt, chiar dac\u0103 din p\u0103cate nu mai este, \u00een ace\u0219ti ani \u00een care a fost al\u0103turi de noi, a tr\u0103it cu adev\u0103rat \u0219i pot spune c\u0103 sunt zeci de expedi\u021bii la care a participat \u0219i \u00een care a inspirat genera\u021bii \u00eentregi.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Dan Izvoreanu: Voi a\u021bi petrecut destul de mult timp \u00eempreun\u0103, \u00een expedi\u021bii grele sau \u00een ie\u0219iri mai u\u0219oare. Cum era Zsolt ca om, \u00een afara momentelor \u00een care era Zsolt alpinistul? Cum \u00eel percepeai ca om \u0219i ca prieten? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Vlad Capusan: <\/strong>Zsolt era un copil, \u0219i cred c\u0103 asta ne-a apropiat at\u00e2t de mult, pentru c\u0103 nu a existat niciodat\u0103 o diferen\u021b\u0103 de v\u00e2rst\u0103 \u00eentre noi. Nu a contat aceast\u0103 diferen\u021b\u0103 niciodat\u0103, ba din contr\u0103, ne sim\u021beam ca doi pu\u0219tani care au plecat \u00eempreun\u0103 s\u0103 descopere lumea. \u0218i asta e fantastic, fiindc\u0103 e frumos s\u0103 mergi pe munte cu oameni profesioni\u0219ti, experimenta\u021bi dar e \u0219i mai frumos s\u0103 mergi al\u0103turi de cel mai bun prieten \u0219i s\u0103 te sim\u021bi ca \u00eentr-o aventur\u0103 din copil\u0103rie. El a fost de fapt \u0219i \u00een realitate ca „Micul Prin\u021b”, pentru c\u0103 acolo sus era de fapt universul lui. Era lumea pe care el \u0219i-a creat-o \u0219i din care am f\u0103cut \u0219i eu parte. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Conteaz\u0103 foarte mult s\u0103 ai o doz\u0103 de nebunie; e bine s\u0103 evaluezi riscurile la care te expui dar \u00een acela\u0219i timp s\u0103 fii extraordinar de perseverent, a\u0219a cum era el. Atunci c\u00e2nd \u00ee\u0219i punea \u00een minte un obiectiv mergea p\u00een\u0103 la cap\u0103t. Eu am \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat asta de la el, s\u0103 nu m\u0103 dau b\u0103tut at\u00e2t de repede, indiferent c\u0103 vorbim de alpinism sau de alte obiective \u00een via\u021b\u0103. Perseveren\u021ba asta p\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 de duce pe v\u00e2rf. Chiar dac\u0103 e\u0219uezi o dat\u0103, de dou\u0103 ori, important este s\u0103 nu te dai b\u0103tut. Zsolt a avut multe experien\u021be de acest gen, \u00eemi aduc aminte de  expedi\u021bia pe v\u00e2rful Nanga Parbat, pe care a \u00eencercat s\u0103-l urce \u0219i nu a reu\u0219it prima dat\u0103. \u00cens\u0103 a reu\u0219it din a doua \u00eencercare; la fel a fost \u0219i cu v\u00e2rful Pumori, la fel \u0219i cu alte v\u00e2rfuri pe care am urcat \u00eempreun\u0103. Asta m-a impresionat \u00eentotdeauna la el. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

        Dan Izvoreanu: \u021ai-a spus vreodat\u0103 care era cel mai mare vis al s\u0103u, legat de munte \u0219i de alpinism?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Vlad Capusan: <\/strong>Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 sintetizez visele lui Zsolt, cred c\u0103 el \u0219i-ar fi dorit foarte mult s\u0103 fac\u0103 alpinism p\u00een\u0103 \u00een ultima clip\u0103. Am avut multe discu\u021bii cu el legate de c\u00e2nd ar fi momentul potrivit s\u0103 o la\u0219i mai moale cu acest sport \u0219i eventual s\u0103 te apuci de o alt\u0103 activitate ceva mai lejer\u0103. Zsolt mi-a spus clar: at\u00e2t timp c\u00e2t va putea umbla \u0219i at\u00e2t timp c\u00e2t va avea energie, el \u00eentotdeauna va \u00eencerca s\u0103 \u00eenving\u0103 imposibilul. \u0218i p\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 asta s-a \u0219i \u00eent\u00e2mplat\u2026 a murit \u00een F\u0103g\u0103ra\u0219, locul pe care l-a iubit \u0219i unde al\u0103turi de el am deschis at\u00e2tea trasee de alpinism, \u00eenc\u00e2t parc\u0103 totul a fost predestinat.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Dan Izvoreanu: Sunt anumite momente petrecute al\u0103turi de Zsolt care \u021bi-au r\u0103mas \u00eentip\u0103rite \u00een minte?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Vlad Capusan: <\/strong>Sunt at\u00e2t de multe \u00eenc\u00e2t mi-e greu s\u0103 aleg. Dar pot spune c\u0103 nu voi uita niciodat\u0103 acele cafele 3 \u00een 1 pe care Zsolt le f\u0103cea at\u00e2t de bune \u00een acele bivuacuri \u00eenghe\u021bate la peste 6.000 de metri altitudine sau acele dimine\u021bi \u00een care am\u00e2ndoi ne trezeam \u00een\u021bepeni\u021bi dup\u0103 o noapte nedormit\u0103 sau momentele \u00een care ne-am b\u0103gat \u00eentr-o crevas\u0103 \u00een Patagonia\u2026 Chiar dac\u0103 sun\u0103 ciudat, era singurul loc \u00een care puteam s\u0103 ne ad\u0103postim de vijelia de afar\u0103 \u0219i atunci el a luat decizia s\u0103 cobor\u00e2m \u00eentr-o crevas\u0103. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
        • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

          Sunt multe momente care pentru unii par a fi dramatice sau  riscante dar pentru mine vor r\u0103m\u00e2ne ni\u0219te amintiri extraordinare, pentru c\u0103 acele momente mici mi-au ar\u0103tat de fapt adev\u0103rata frumuse\u021be a vie\u021bii \u0219i m\u0103 bucur c\u0103 le-am tr\u0103it al\u0103turi de Zsolt Torok.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Dan Izvoreanu: \u0218tiu c\u0103 voi, prietenii lui apropia\u021bi, o s\u0103-i aduce\u021bi un omagiu acolo \u00een F\u0103g\u0103ra\u0219, \u00een apropierea locului \u00een care a murit. Ve\u021bi amplasa un mic monument l\u00e2ng\u0103 refugiul C\u0103l\u021bun.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Vlad Capusan: <\/strong>Da, a\u0219a este. E un monument pe care noi l-am g\u00e2ndit, pentru c\u0103 Zsolt chiar merit\u0103 un punct de reper care s\u0103 d\u0103inuiasc\u0103 peste ani iar Laura, so\u021bia lui, al\u0103turi de Marius Iliescu, Romic\u0103 Popa \u0219i de al\u021bi prieteni foarte apropia\u021bi, am decis s\u0103 ne organiz\u0103m \u0219i s\u0103 amplas\u0103m acest monument. Va fi \u00eentr-un loc foarte frumos, cu o panorama superb\u0103 asupra mun\u021bilor. Chiar dac\u0103 Zsolt nu mai e, sper ca acest monument s\u0103-i inspire pe viitor pe cei care vor citi despre el \u0219i care vor dori s\u0103 devin\u0103 alpini\u0219ti. Monumentul urmeaz\u0103 s\u0103 fie inaugurat \u00een luna noiembrie 2019.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Interviu realizat de Dan Izvoreanu<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Sursa foto: Facebook \/ Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an <\/em>
          <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

          Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an este t\u00e2n\u0103rul pe care Zsolt Torok l-a luat sub aripa sa. Chiar dac\u0103 \u00eentre ei a fost o diferen\u021b\u0103 mare…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16,"featured_media":3401,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[37],"tags":[522,284,1474,1480,840,1482,1473,1477,1478,438,1476,1475,1333,534,276,1481,525,1484,1485,1472,1479,1471,236,792,138,1488,808,394,1489,1487,1486,934,1483,273,805,1199],"yoast_head":"\nVlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: Zsolt Torok era ca "Micul Prin\u021b" \u00eentr-un univers pe care \u0219i l-a creat chiar el - Outdoor Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2019\/10\/28\/vlad-capusan-zsolt-torok-era-un-mic-print-intr-un-univers-pe-care-si-l-a-creat-chiar-el\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: Zsolt Torok era ca "Micul Prin\u021b" \u00eentr-un univers pe care \u0219i l-a creat chiar el - Outdoor Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an este t\u00e2n\u0103rul pe care Zsolt Torok l-a luat sub aripa sa. 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