{"id":3503,"date":"2020-03-02T16:20:05","date_gmt":"2020-03-02T16:20:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/?p=3503"},"modified":"2020-05-02T10:11:30","modified_gmt":"2020-05-02T10:11:30","slug":"vlad-capusan-impreuna-cu-teo-vlad-am-deschis-un-traseu-in-premiera-mondiala-in-patagonia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2020\/03\/02\/vlad-capusan-impreuna-cu-teo-vlad-am-deschis-un-traseu-in-premiera-mondiala-in-patagonia\/","title":{"rendered":"Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: \u00cempreun\u0103 cu Teo Vlad am deschis un traseu \u00een premier\u0103 mondial\u0103 \u00een Patagonia"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Dan Izvoreanu: Ai fost din nou \u00een Patagonia pentru a duce la bun sf\u00e2r\u0219it un proiect pe care \u00eel aveai \u00een plan de mai mult timp, \u00een special pentru a face un traseu de alpinism pe care i l-ai dedicat lui Zsolt Torok.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Da, a\u0219a este. De fapt aceast\u0103 expedi\u021bie a fost ultima pe care am planificat-o cu Zsolt, era o expedi\u021bie \u00een care ar fi trebuit s\u0103 mergem cu to\u021bii, pe care din p\u0103cate nu am reu\u0219it s\u0103 o realiz\u0103m. De aceea aceast\u0103 a fost o expedi\u021bie pe care am vrut s\u0103 i-o dedic\u0103m, iar premiera pe care am f\u0103cut-o a reprezentat un ultim omagiu pe care i l-am adus lui Zsolt. Acel traseu pe noi ne-a inspirat foarte mult, iar eu chiar sper c\u0103 \u00een anii care vor urm\u0103 s\u0103 inspire \u0219i al\u021bi c\u0103\u021b\u0103r\u0103tori care \u00eel vor \u00eencerca.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dan Izvoreanu: P\u00e2n\u0103 s\u0103 ajungem la traseul pe care voi l-a\u021bi deschis \u00een premier\u0103, vreau s\u0103 \u00eemi spui cum sunt mun\u021bii Anzi \u0219i cum este Patagonia din punct de vedere al alpinismului?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: <\/strong>Cred c\u0103 din punct de vedere alpin este una dintre cele mai complexe zone de pe planet\u0103, fiindc\u0103 sunt zone care seam\u0103n\u0103 foarte mult cu Antarctica, dar \u0219i zone care seam\u0103n\u0103 foarte mult cu Sahara, dac\u0103 vorbim de de\u0219ertul Atacama, \u0219i ai un contrast fantastic \u00eentre ele. Pe de alt\u0103 parte mun\u021bii Anzi sunt foarte \u00eentin\u0219i, este practic un continent \u00eentreg, iar dac\u0103 \u00een sudul Anzilor ai mun\u021bii Patagonia, cunoscu\u021bi pentru condi\u021biile foarte foarte aspre, \u00een nord ai oarecum un alt climat cald, dar sunt \u00een\u0103l\u021bimi foarte mari, care urc\u0103 la peste 6000 de metri.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: \u0218i zona pe care a\u021bi \u021bintit-o acum, pe care spuneai c\u0103 ai pl\u0103nuit-o \u00eempreun\u0103 cu Zolt Torok, dup\u0103 ce criterii a\u021bi ales-o?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Noi am auzit de aceast\u0103 zon\u0103 \u00eentr-un mod foarte mistic s\u0103 zic a\u0219a, fiindc\u0103 e o zon\u0103 foarte pu\u021bin cunoscut\u0103, practic primele trasee au fost f\u0103cute \u00een urm\u0103 cu 10-15 ani, dar \u00een acela\u0219i timp are un poten\u021bial uria\u0219. Vorbim de pere\u021bi mai mari dec\u00e2t \u00een Yosemite Valley din America. \u00cen plus, sunt zone \u0219i v\u0103i care nici m\u0103car nu au fost \u00eenc\u0103 explorate.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: \u0218tiu c\u0103 a\u021bi stat acolo aproximativ 3 s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2ni. Ce a\u021bi f\u0103cut \u00een acest timp?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> \u00cen prima faza am hot\u0103r\u00e2t s\u0103 mergem \u00een zona Frey din Patagonia argentinian\u0103, unde am vrut s\u0103 ne obi\u0219nuim cu acest tip de c\u0103\u021b\u0103rare pe granit, pe fisuri, care este foarte diferit de c\u0103\u021b\u0103rarea pe calcar pe care o avem \u00een Rom\u00e2nia. De asemenea \u00een zona Frey sunt ni\u0219te turnuri uria\u0219e de granit pe care le-am savurat cu mare pl\u0103cere. Am c\u0103\u021b\u0103rat mai multe trasee acolo, dup\u0103 care am trecut \u00een Chile unde ne-am aprovizionat. \u0218tiam c\u0103 pentru zona Cochamo avem nevoie de foarte multe provizii, pentru c\u0103 este foarte izolat\u0103. Noi am pus la cale un plan de b\u0103taie pentru 3 s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2ni, fiindc\u0103 am v\u0103zut c\u0103 avem o fereastr\u0103 de vreme bun\u0103. Ca s\u0103 ajungem \u00een zona unde vroiam s\u0103 facem traseele, am apelat la ni\u0219te localnici care ne-au c\u0103rat cele 200 de kilograme de provizii circa 14 km pe vale, unde am amplasat tab\u0103ra de baza de unde am f\u0103cut toate ascensiunile.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Dan Izvoreanu: \u0218i c\u00e2t a\u021bi stat acolo?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> \u00cen total acolo am stat 11 zile fiindc\u0103 dup\u0103 aceea se strica vremea \u0219i riscam s\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2nem bloca\u021bi acolo.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Dan Izvoreanu: Tu ai mai fost \u00een Patagonia, dar nu \u00een aceast\u0103 zona. Aici este o zon\u0103 turistic\u0103 sau este mai pu\u021bin umblat\u0103?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Zona este foarte s\u0103lbatic\u0103 \u0219i pu\u021bin explorat\u0103, \u00een schimb sunt oameni care fac trekking, dar mai mult chilieni. Am mai \u00eent\u00e2lnit echipe de c\u0103\u021b\u0103r\u0103tori str\u0103ini care au venit s\u0103 escaladeze pere\u021bii spectaculo\u0219i din zon\u0103. \u00cen schimb locul este foarte s\u0103lbatic, trebuie s\u0103 parcurgi jungla, ne-am \u0219i r\u0103t\u0103cit de c\u00e2teva ori. \u00cen sf\u00e2r\u0219it, ajungi la ace\u0219ti pere\u021bi foarte \u00eenal\u021bi pe care trebuie s\u0103-i ca\u021beri, iar aici vorbim de o tehnic\u0103 special\u0103 de escalad\u0103 pentru ace\u0219ti pere\u021bi de peste 1000 de metri, dup\u0103 care ajungi \u00een golul alpin unde faci alpinism pur pentru a ajunge pe v\u00e2rf. Este un proces foarte complex, este necesar\u0103 o logistic\u0103 ampl\u0103, \u00een care ai nevoie de toate tipurile de echipamente pentru a ajunge din tab\u0103ra de baza care e \u00een jungl\u0103, p\u00e2n\u0103 pe v\u00e2rful muntelui.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
    • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

      Dan Izvoreanu: Cum a\u021bi ales peretele pe care l-a\u021bi urcat voi \u00een premier\u0103 mondial\u0103?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Am avut mare noroc s\u0103 \u00eent\u00e2lnim ni\u0219te pionieri ai alpinismului din zon\u0103, care au b\u0103tut primele trasee, cu care am avut ni\u0219te discu\u021bii foarte pl\u0103cute \u0219i care ne-au indicat Valea Paloma, ca fiind una dintre zonele cele mai pu\u021bin explorate din tot masivul Cochamo. \u00cen acest context am hot\u0103r\u00e2t s\u0103 \u00eencerc\u0103m dar doar dup\u0103 ce am dob\u00e2ndit o anumit\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103 \u0219i am exersat \u0219i alte trasee. \u00cen cele din urm\u0103 am ajuns \u0219i \u00een valea Paloma, care este o vale mai \u00eenalt\u0103 iar accesul este mai dificil, \u0219i acolo am avut o zi \u00een care doar am explorat pere\u021bii \u0219i am c\u0103utat cel mai bun \u0219i mai estetic traseu pe care l-am putut g\u0103si.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      Dan Izvoreanu: Peretele pe care l-a\u021bi urcat \u00een premier\u0103, ce lungime are?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> \u00cen primul r\u00e2nd cred c\u0103 este important \u0219i stilul \u00een care l-am parcurs. C\u00e2nd l-am v\u0103zut am decis s\u0103 nu introducem \u00een perete niciun fel de asigurare fix\u0103, nici pitoane, nici ciocan, deci practic nu am l\u0103sat nimic \u00een urma noastr\u0103, am abordat cel mai curat stil de c\u0103\u021b\u0103rare. Ascensiunea propriu-zis\u0103 a durat aproximativ 14 ore, timp \u00een care am reu\u0219it s\u0103 parcurgem 9 lungimi de coard\u0103, care \u00een total au peste 400 de metri \u00een\u0103l\u021bime, cu un grad estimat de 6C. E un traseu foarte frumos, care impune o anumit\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103, dar linia pe care am g\u0103sit-o este deosebit\u0103 \u0219i m\u0103 bucur c\u0103 am putut s\u0103 i-o dedic\u0103m lui Zsolt Torok.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Dan Izvoreanu: \u0218tiu c\u0103 i-a\u021bi dat o denumire traseului \u00eentr-un mod special.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Pe parcursul ascensiunii ne-a \u00eenso\u021bit \u00een permanen\u021b\u0103 un condor, care ne-a urm\u0103rit \u0219i a survolat \u00een jurul nostru. Este fantastic, fiindc\u0103 aceste p\u0103s\u0103ri sunt foarte rare \u00een zon\u0103 iar acest condor st\u0103tea la circa 2 metri de noi \u0219i urmarea foarte atent fiecare mi\u0219care pe care o f\u0103ceam. Am sim\u021bit ceva mai mult dac\u0103 se poate spune, av\u00e2nd acel condor aproape de noi. Parcurg\u00e2nd acel traseu, iar pe v\u00e2rf v\u0103z\u00e2nd c\u0103 acel condor \u00eenc\u0103 ne \u00eenso\u021bea, am decis s\u0103 denumim traseul \u201cEl ultimo vuelo del condor\u201d. De fapt \u0219i imaginea pe care mi-o voi aminti peste ani despre Zsolt seam\u0103n\u0103 cu un vultur, fiindc\u0103 el avea toate caracteristicile unei astfel de p\u0103s\u0103ri.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Dan Izvoreanu: Spune-i c\u0103 dup\u0103 ce a\u021bi reu\u0219it s\u0103 face\u021bi acest traseu pe care i l-a\u021bi dedicat lui Zsolt, ai sim\u021bit o u\u0219urare. Po\u021bi s\u0103 \u00eemi explici?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Cred c\u0103 dup\u0103 ce pierzi un coechipier cu care ai \u00eemp\u0103rt\u0103\u0219it at\u00e2t de multe momente, e foarte greu s\u0103 treci peste aceast\u0103 pierdere. Chiar dac\u0103 timpul trece, durerea r\u0103m\u00e2ne. Cred c\u0103 prin parcurgerea acestui traseu am reu\u0219it s\u0103-mi iau cumva r\u0103mas bun, aduc\u00e2nd un ultim omagiu, fiindc\u0103 \u0219tiu c\u0103 \u0219i el \u0219i-ar fi dorit s\u0103 fie al\u0103turi de noi.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Dan Izvoreanu: Ai fost \u00eempreun\u0103 cu Teo Vlad, un alt alpinist experimentat. A\u021bi mai f\u0103cut expedi\u021bii \u00eempreun\u0103, deci s\u0103 \u00een\u021beleg c\u0103 ve\u021bi face echipa \u0219i \u00een viitor pentru alte aventuri?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Teo este \u00een primul r\u00e2nd un prieten foarte apropiat, e un om care a avut mult\u0103 r\u0103bdare cu mine, fiindc\u0103 eu \u00een general sunt pu\u021bin mai agitat. Am reu\u0219it s\u0103 glumim \u00een cele mai dificile momente \u0219i s\u0103 ne sim\u021bim bine atunci c\u00e2nd presiunea a fost foarte mare \u0219i cred c\u0103, cel mai important, am reu\u0219it s\u0103 avem aceea\u0219i sinergie \u0219i am lucrat \u00eempreun\u0103 perfect. Noi deja am discutat \u0219i ne-am f\u0103cut anumite planuri pe care \u00eenc\u0103 le \u021binem secrete, dar cred c\u0103 pe viitor lucrurile se vor lega foarte frumos.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Dan Izvoreanu: Ce \u021bi-a mai pl\u0103cut \u00een Patagonia, pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 trasee?<\/strong>
      <\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Oamenii sunt foarte deschi\u0219i, z\u00e2mbesc foarte mult \u0219i au o atitudine pozitiv\u0103. Asta m-a f\u0103cut s\u0103 m\u0103 simt foarte bine al\u0103turi de ei. Chiar dac\u0103 majoritatea nu \u0219tiu limba englez\u0103, am reu\u0219it s\u0103 comunic\u0103m \u00eentr-o rom\u00e2no-spaniol\u0103 exersat\u0103 ad hoc.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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      • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

        Dan Izvoreanu: \u00cen ultimul timp ai fost de mai multe ori \u00een America de Sud. \u00cen Himalaya, mai ai de g\u00e2nd s\u0103 mergi?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an:<\/strong> Sincer, \u00een acest moment, dac\u0103 ar trebui s\u0103 aleg \u00eentre Himalaya \u0219i America de Sud, a\u0219 alege America de Sud, \u0219i asta pentru c\u0103 are un poten\u021bial foarte mare de explorat. Din multe puncte de vedere America de Sud este mult mai s\u0103lbatic\u0103 \u0219i poate nu e at\u00e2t de comercial\u0103 c\u0103 \u0219i Nepalul. Mult mai mult m\u0103 atrage \u00een acest moment necunoscutul din America de sud dec\u00e2t optmiarii din Himalaya.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Dan Izvoreanu: Spuneai c\u0103 practici alpinismul \u00eenc\u0103 din adolescen\u021b\u0103. Ce crezi c\u0103 mai ai de \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat \u00een acest domeniu \u0219i ce crezi c\u0103 ar trebui s\u0103 mai schimbi la tine c\u0103 s\u0103 ajungi un alpinist des\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219it?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: <\/strong>Cred c\u0103 mai am foarte multe de \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat, mai am foarte multe de asimilat \u0219i cred c\u0103 este un proces complex prin care te dezvol\u021bi mai ales din punct de vedere mental, \u00een timp. Cheia este m\u0103sura \u00een care reu\u0219e\u0219ti s\u0103 gestionezi situa\u021biile limit\u0103 care pot ap\u0103rea. \u00cen plus mi-a\u0219 dori s\u0103 m\u0103 pot organiza mai bine, fiindc\u0103 de multe ori succesul unei expedi\u021bii \u021bine de micile detalii.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Dan Izvoreanu: Ce nu-\u021bi lipse\u0219te niciodat\u0103 din echipamentul de baza atunci c\u00e2nd pleci \u00eentr-o expedi\u021bie? Ce iei \u00eentotdeauna cu \u021bine?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: <\/strong>Unul dintre lucrurile pe care le iau \u00eentotdeauna cu mine, chiar dac\u0103 \u00een ultima perioada sub form\u0103 digital\u0103, este Biblia. Cred c\u0103 acolo g\u0103sesc lini\u0219tea \u0219i \u00eemp\u0103carea de care am nevoie indiferent de c\u00e2t de emo\u021bionat sau tensionat a\u0219 fi. De asemenea obi\u0219nuiesc s\u0103 \u00eemi iau \u0219i carne\u021belul meu \u00een care scriu anumite g\u00e2nduri sau \u00een care mai schi\u021bez anumite peisaje \u0219i care r\u0103m\u00e2ne \u00eentotdeauna c\u0103 o amintire consolidat\u0103 \u00een timp.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Interviu realizat de Dan Izvoreanu<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Fotografii : Facebook \/ Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

        Dan Izvoreanu: Ai fost din nou \u00een Patagonia pentru a duce la bun sf\u00e2r\u0219it un proiect pe care \u00eel aveai…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16,"featured_media":3506,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[37],"tags":[204,1567,1569,279,241,1333,1570,534,1571,525,1574,1565,1479,1568,138,1488,1566,1573,394,1572,88,990,934,683,1564,235,628,805,701],"yoast_head":"\nVlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: \u00cempreun\u0103 cu Teo Vlad am deschis un traseu \u00een premier\u0103 mondial\u0103 \u00een Patagonia - Outdoor Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2020\/03\/02\/vlad-capusan-impreuna-cu-teo-vlad-am-deschis-un-traseu-in-premiera-mondiala-in-patagonia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an: \u00cempreun\u0103 cu Teo Vlad am deschis un traseu \u00een premier\u0103 mondial\u0103 \u00een Patagonia - 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