{"id":3588,"date":"2020-04-26T19:46:28","date_gmt":"2020-04-26T19:46:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/?p=3588"},"modified":"2020-04-30T09:43:33","modified_gmt":"2020-04-30T09:43:33","slug":"trekking-in-alta-emisfera-vinicunca-muntele-curcubeu-din-peru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2020\/04\/26\/trekking-in-alta-emisfera-vinicunca-muntele-curcubeu-din-peru\/","title":{"rendered":"Trekking \u00een alt\u0103 emisfer\u0103: Vinicunca-muntele curcubeu din Peru"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Rainbow Mountain. Sun\u0103 atractiv, dar nu \u00een\u021belegi ce vrei s\u0103 spun\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 nu cau\u021bi informa\u021bii despre el. Prima \u00eencurc\u0103tur\u0103 este s\u0103 afli c\u0103-s mai mul\u021bi \u00een lume, prin Patagonia, altul tot prin Peru (Palccoyo). Chiar \u0219i \u00een China exist\u0103 un astfel de munte colorat. Dar Vinicunca acesta a devenit celebru \u00een ultimii ani cunoscut drept Monta\u00f1a de SieteColores (Muntele celor \u0218apte Culori).<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nu mai \u015ftiu cum am aflat de el, dac\u0103 era \u00een planul de acas\u0103, dac\u0103 ne-am decis pe drum, \u00een Peru. Cert este c\u0103 centrul istoric din Cusco era plin de mici agen\u0163ii de turism cu afi\u015fe colorate \u00een geam pentru Valea Sacr\u0103, Machu Picchu sau Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca). Straturile colorate ce dau form\u0103 Vinicunc\u0103i din afi\u0219e, at\u00e2ta ne-au f\u0103cut cu ochiul, c\u0103 nu am rezistat \u015fi am decis c\u0103 este un mod pl\u0103cut \u015fi interesant de a acoperi una dintre zilele rezervate pentru Cusco \u015fi \u00eemprejurimi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Am ales la \u00eent\u00e2mplare una dintre ele, c\u0103ci pre\u0163ul este acela\u015fi peste tot. Aproximativ 25$ de persoan\u0103 pentru o excursie de o zi cu ghid, mic dejun \u015fi un pr\u00e2nz la altitudini de peste 4000 de metri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diminea\u0163a, pe la ora 3 \u015fi jum\u0103tate, suntem preg\u0103ti\u0163i de drum, \u00een fa\u0163a casei noastre din cartierul Arcopata. Drumul spre Vinicunca este lung, cel pu\u0163in trei ore de condus, vreo 130 km din Cusco, din care mare parte pe drumuri abrupte de munte. Se explic\u0103 \u0219i graba asta de a pleca cu noaptea \u00een cap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen Cusco se lumineaz\u0103 devreme, pe la 6 soarele este sus, astfel c\u0103 abia pe la Checacupe vedem peisajul uscat al \u021b\u0103rii. P\u00e2n\u0103 aici (aproximativ 3450 metri altitudine) avem parte de o zon\u0103 destul de populat\u0103, cu dealuri \u00eenalte aride, localit\u0103\u0163i destul de pr\u0103p\u0103dite, cu case parc\u0103 nicic\u00e2nd terminate. Este valea r\u00e2ului Urubamba, unul dintre izvoarele Amazonului. Dac\u0103 nu \u015ftia\u0163i, tot Urubamba este r\u00e2ul ce \u00eenconjoar\u0103 muntele pe care inca\u015fii au ridicat Machu Picchu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Din micul or\u0103\u0219el peruan p\u0103r\u0103sim drumul principal \u0219i valea Amazonului, urc\u00e2nd pe Valea Pitumarca (unul dintre cele mai vechi drumuri coloniale ce f\u0103ceau leg\u0103tura \u00eentre Arequipa \u0219i Cusco). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Drumul spre Vinicunca este de greu de identificat pe h\u0103r\u021bi, de asta se \u0219i recomand\u0103 printre altele s\u0103 apelezi la o agen\u021bie local\u0103 de ghizi. Serpentine spectaculoase, abrupturi f\u0103r\u0103 parape\u021bi, por\u021biuni p\u0103m\u00e2ntoase care nu par a fi prea sigure la ploaie, toate astea \u00eembrac\u0103 cel mai periculos drum pe care l-am str\u0103b\u0103tut vreodat\u0103. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u0103s\u0103m\n\u00een urm\u0103 Uchullujllo, ultimul sat mai r\u0103s\u0103rit \u0219i cum trecem de altitudinea de\n4000 metri doar c\u00e2te-un c\u0103tun mai s\u0103r\u0103c\u0103cios se mai \u00eent\u00e2lne\u0219te \u00een cale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen ultimul dintre ele, la 4209 metri altitudine, facem un popas pentru un mic dejun la o familie de quechua care a profitat de \u00eendat\u0103 de goana pentru Vinicunca pentru a deschide o mic\u0103 afacere. Pe drum sunt mai multe astfel de case de oaspe\u021bi, pentru popula\u021bia local\u0103 de quechua p\u0103stori de lame fiind, \u00een ultimii ani, o man\u0103 cereasc\u0103. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dup\u0103 scurtul popas, ie\u0219im din micul c\u0103tun \u0219i p\u0103r\u0103sim drumul principal, urc\u0103m o vreme de-a coasta apoi intr\u0103m pe o vale s\u0103lbatic\u0103, \u0219oseaua trec\u00e2nd de pe o parte pe alta, peste ni\u0219te h\u0103uri destul de neprimitoare. La cap\u0103tul drumului auto este Pitumarca Trail Parking, unul dintre cele dou\u0103 puncte de intrare spre muntele Vinicunca, dar se pare c\u0103 cel mai popular.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ghizii \u00ee\u0219i \u00eempart echipele cu veste de culori diferite, pentru fi mai u\u0219or de men\u021binut grupul pe traseu. Suntem mul\u021bi cei care pornim la drum spre Muntele Curcubeu, iar fiecare ghid poart\u0103 grija a maxim zece turi\u0219ti. Vremea de aprilie nu prea pare a \u021bine cu noi. Este sf\u00e2r\u0219it de sezon ploios, chiar \u0219i \u00een zona asta arid\u0103 din sudul Perului, iar crestele mun\u021bilor gem sub nori negri. \u00cen schimb,  \u00een jurul nostru totul este verde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Traseul ar trebui s\u0103 dureze dou\u0103-trei ore, \u00een func\u021bie de puterile fiec\u0103ruia, dar de la \u00eenceput trebuie s\u0103 luam \u00een calcul altitudinea \u00eenalt\u0103 \u0219i aclimatizarea reu\u0219it\u0103 sau nereu\u0219it\u0103 a zilelor petrecute \u00een Cusco. Am plecat de la peste 4400 metri altitudine \u0219i vom urca p\u00e2n\u0103 la 5200. Niciodat\u0103 nu am fost la \u00een\u0103l\u021bimi a\u0219a de mari \u0219i poate ar trebui s\u0103 o lu\u0103m u\u0219or la deal, pentru a nu ne lovi din prima r\u0103ul de altitudine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Urc\u00e2nd pe valea larg\u0103, intr\u0103m tot mai mult \u00een zonele \u00eenalte ale masivului Ausangate, al patrulea uria\u0219 din Peru, cu cei 6384 metri ai lui. Depresiunea este plin\u0103 de mici comunit\u0103\u021bi de p\u0103stori de lame \u0219i alpaca (un fel de st\u00e2ne formate din mai multe case de piatr\u0103, pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 firul de ap\u0103). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cum spuneam, \u00een general traseul spre Muntele Curcubeu nu este unul greu, dar altitudinea ne face pe cei mai mul\u021bi dintre noi s\u0103 devenim neputincio\u0219i. Nu mai po\u021bi continua pe jos, ia un cal. G\u0103se\u0219ti destui, c\u0103ci drumul este plin de localnici, care doar din asta tr\u0103iesc: \u00eenchiriatul cailor. Pentru c\u0103 nu pot face asta tot timpul anului, din cauza vremii, nu-\u021bi cer pu\u021bini bani pentru a merge c\u0103lare pe Vinicunca. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dup\u0103 jum\u0103tate de drum am cedat oboselii \u0219i l-am abordat pe unul dintre ei pentru a \u201c\u00eenchiria\u201d doi cai p\u00e2n\u0103 sus. Am reu\u0219it s\u0103 m\u0103 \u00een\u021beleg la vreo 100 Soles (30$) pentru am\u00e2ndoi, dar pentru c\u0103 nu aveam dec\u00e2t dolari la noi, precupe\u021bul nostru s-a g\u00e2ndit s\u0103 inventeze propriul lui curs valutar, cer\u00e2ndu-mi 50$. \u0218i nu se l\u0103sa omule\u021bul. Avea de partea lui bariera de comunicare (nu vorbea nici m\u0103car spaniol\u0103) \u0219i \u00eenc\u0103p\u0103\u021b\u00e2narea specific\u0103 muntenilor. Ne-au s\u0103rit \u00een ajutor ni\u0219te turi\u0219ti peruani din Lima \u0219i mi-au schimbat ei banii la cursul corect, c\u0103ci quechua al meu nu se l\u0103sa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Alta este via\u021ba de la \u00een\u0103l\u021bimea calului. Ne-am mai revenit \u0219i noi un pic cu respiratul, altfel nu prea m\u0103 vedeam trecut a\u0219a u\u0219or de pragul celor 5000 metri altitudine. Nenorocul a f\u0103cut s\u0103 nu m\u0103 \u00eemprietenesc cu altitudinea c\u00e2t am stat \u00een Cusco \u0219i \u00een fiecare zi am avut dureri de cap. Localnicii se lupt\u0103 cu aerul rarefiat \u0219i-\u0219i iau energia din mestecatul frunzelor de coca. Am \u00eencercat \u0219i eu, dar nu po\u021bi c\u00e2\u0219tiga \u00een dou\u0103 zile ce au adunat al\u021bii \u00eentr-o via\u021b\u0103. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dup\u0103 cele dou\u0103 ore \u0219i ceva de potec\u0103 ajungem \u00eentr-un final pe cump\u0103na de ape de pe care natura a ridicat Muntele Curcubeu. \u00cen trec\u0103toare, c\u00e2teva \u021b\u0103r\u0103nci au improvizat un mic \u201cmagazin s\u0103tesc\u201d de aprovizionare cu ap\u0103, sucuri sau dulciuri. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dac\u0103 vrei s\u0103 vezi muntele \u00een \u00eentreaga lui splendoare \u0219i \u021bi-a mai r\u0103mas suficient\u0103 energie, nu trebuie s\u0103 te opre\u0219ti \u00een trec\u0103toare, ci s\u0103 urci pe muntele opus, la un punct de belvedere. De aici \u00ee\u021bi apare ceea ce ai v\u0103zut de-acas\u0103 prin fotografii. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cunoscut de localnici drept Winikunka (5200 m), i se mai spune Monta\u00f1a de SieteColores pentru c\u0103 din at\u00e2tea minerale se trag culorile diferite ale solului. Ro\u0219ul indic\u0103 rugina oxidului de fier, portocaliul \u0219i galbenul vin de la amestecul de sulf \u0219i fier, iar turcoazul provine din amestecul de verde \u0219i galben al cloritului.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cobor\u00e2rea a fost mai rapid\u0103 dec\u00e2t ne-am fi dorit. La altitudinea asta vremea este capricioas\u0103, iar un nor negru a adus cu el \u0219i o furtun\u0103 de z\u0103pad\u0103. Ca s\u0103 nu uit\u0103m c\u0103 suntem la 5000 de metri. Din p\u0103cate ne-a ajuns din urm\u0103 nu doar ninsoarea, ci \u0219i r\u0103ul de altitudine. Cu care nu este de glumit. A fost cea mai grea cobor\u00e2re pe care am f\u0103cut-o vreodat\u0103 de pe munte. La fiecare zece pa\u0219i sim\u021beam nevoia s\u0103 m\u0103 opresc \u0219i s\u0103 m\u0103 odihnesc. \u0218i asta la vale. \u0218i nu eram singurul \u00een situa\u021bia asta. Din echipa noastr\u0103 am suferit cel mai mult eu \u0219i Sorin. De fete am fost m\u00e2ndri, s-au descurcat de minune.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

La \u00eentoarcere ne-am oprit iar \u00een c\u0103tunul de pe vale, pentru masa de cin\u0103, inclus\u0103 \u00een serviciile turistice, apoi \u00een lungul drum spre Cusco ne-am mai oprit doar pentru o scurt\u0103 pauz\u0103 \u00een Checacupe. \u00cen micul or\u0103\u0219el se g\u0103se\u0219te una dintre incredibilele atrac\u021bii ale zonei, podul inca\u0219ilor, \u201eQueshuaChaca\u201d, construit din paie. Spaniolii au venit mai t\u00e2rziu \u0219i au ridicat unul din piatr\u0103 \u0219i ciment, \u201cPuente de la Nuevacivilizaci\u00f3n\u201d sau Podul Colonial de la Checacupe, peste care s\u0103 poat\u0103 transporta \u00eenc\u0103rc\u0103turi grele de c\u0103rbune de la Arequipa la Cusco. Ast\u0103zi ambele poduri se pot vedea unul l\u00e2ng\u0103 cel\u0103lalt, travers\u00e2nd valea Pitumarca.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cobor\u00e2rea la altitudini mai joase (Cusco se afl\u0103 la 3500 metri), ne-a ajutat s\u0103 ne mai revenim \u00een sim\u021biri. Cu toate c\u0103 am suferit destul de mult pe Vinicunca, nimic nu s-a putut compara cu satisfac\u021bia pe care am avut-o sus privind coloritul spectaculos l\u0103sat de natur\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Facts<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e2n\u0103 acum c\u00e2\u021biva ani, doar quechua de sub Ausangate \u0219tiau de existen\u021ba Vinicunc\u0103i, pentru c\u0103 \u00eentreaga zon\u0103 era acoperit\u0103 de z\u0103pad\u0103 \u0219i existen\u021ba curcubeului de culori doar se b\u0103nuia. \u00cenc\u0103lzirea global\u0103 a ultimilor ani a dus la topirea ghe\u021barilor la altitudinile mai joase sco\u021b\u00e2nd la iveal\u0103 solurile diferit colorate.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Descoper\u0103 mai multe destina\u021bii de vis \u00een revistele Outdoor Magazine \u0219i Ski Magazine. Le g\u0103se\u0219ti aici<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Text\/Foto: Emanoil George Cristea<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rainbow Mountain. Sun\u0103 atractiv, dar nu \u00een\u021belegi ce vrei s\u0103 spun\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 nu cau\u021bi informa\u021bii despre el. Prima \u00eencurc\u0103tur\u0103 este…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16,"featured_media":3600,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[32],"tags":[284,1702,1710,1703,1698,1694,1701,602,70,1707,1713,1706,1708,1700,1697,79,1693,1699,138,987,1709,1696,1695,990,934,706,280,1704,1705],"yoast_head":"\nTrekking \u00een alt\u0103 emisfer\u0103: Vinicunca-muntele curcubeu din Peru - Outdoor Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2020\/04\/26\/trekking-in-alta-emisfera-vinicunca-muntele-curcubeu-din-peru\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Trekking \u00een alt\u0103 emisfer\u0103: Vinicunca-muntele curcubeu din Peru - Outdoor Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Rainbow Mountain. 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