{"id":6226,"date":"2021-05-13T08:59:04","date_gmt":"2021-05-13T08:59:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/?p=6226"},"modified":"2021-05-13T08:59:06","modified_gmt":"2021-05-13T08:59:06","slug":"cursa-contra-cronometru-pentru-supravietuire-in-himalaya-marturiile-lui-horia-colibasanu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2021\/05\/13\/cursa-contra-cronometru-pentru-supravietuire-in-himalaya-marturiile-lui-horia-colibasanu\/","title":{"rendered":"Curs\u0103 contra-cronometru pentru supravie\u021buire \u00een Himalaya. M\u0103rturiile lui Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Expedi\u021bie \u00een premier\u0103, oprit\u0103 \u00een urma unei avalan\u0219e. Alpini\u0219tii rom\u00e2ni Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu \u0219i Marius Gane, al\u0103turi de alpinistul slovac Peter Hamor, au \u00eencercat s\u0103 deschid\u0103 o nou\u0103 rut\u0103 spre v\u00e2rful Dhaulagiri din mun\u021bii Himalaya. Duminic\u0103 noapte, ei au fost surprin\u0219i de o avalan\u0219\u0103\u00a0la aproape 7.000 de metri altitudine.\u00a0Au reu\u0219it s\u0103 supravie\u021buiasc\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103 coboare \u00een Tab\u0103ra de Baz\u0103, aflat\u0103 la 4.200 de metri. Primele m\u0103rturii au fost date, prin telefon, de Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu, la Rock FM<\/a>:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00cen Himalaya nu po\u021bi s\u0103 prevezi totul. Himalaya sunt ni\u0219te mun\u021bi care se presupune c\u0103 pleci \u00eentr-o aventur\u0103, dar nu \u0219tii cum se sf\u00e2r\u0219e\u0219te totdeauna. Iar ceea ce s-a \u00eent\u00e2mplat acum face parte din acest lucru. Am pornit acum 5 zile \u00een tentativa de a urca v\u00e2rful Dhaulagiri pe ruta nou\u0103, nord-vestic\u0103. Deja echipasem p\u00e2n\u0103 la 6800 m, era totul destul de \u00een regul\u0103, doar c\u0103 prognoza nu a fost foarte exact\u0103. A \u00eenceput s\u0103 ning\u0103 destul de mult \u0219i la 6.700 de metri nu am g\u0103sit niciun loc foarte bun de pus tab\u0103ra a\u0219a c\u0103 aveam de ales s\u0103 ne \u00eentoarcem, s\u0103 renun\u021b\u0103m, sau s\u0103 mergem s\u0103 travers\u0103m o fa\u021b\u0103 destul de mare, cam de 500 m \u00een\u0103l\u021bime \u0219i 800 m l\u0103\u021bime, s\u0103 o travers\u0103m \u0219i s\u0103 punem tab\u0103ra sub un serac. Am pus-o acolo, doar c\u0103 dup\u0103 cam o or\u0103 a venit o mic\u0103 avalan\u0219\u0103, a\u0219a, un avertisment, deja ninsese destul de mult, nu mai puteam pleca de acolo spre un alt serac ceva mai mare \u0219i mai potrivit, dar la o or\u0103 distan\u021b\u0103. A\u0219a c\u0103 am r\u0103mas acolo, eram destul de aten\u021bi. Nu ni s-a mai \u00eent\u00e2mplat niciodat\u0103, a venit avalan\u0219a… prima dat\u0103 a \u00eenceput s\u0103 ne \u00eemping\u0103 cortul, a venit z\u0103pad\u0103 \u00een lateral. Deci n-am mai v\u0103zut avalan\u0219\u0103 care s\u0103 fac\u0103 st\u00e2nga. A \u00eenceput s\u0103 ne preseze \u0219i apoi, probabil, z\u0103pada a trecut peste acest perete de ghea\u021b\u0103, peste serac, care ne proteja. A c\u0103zut pe cort, ne-a stresat pur \u0219i simplu, ne-a strivit \u00een\u0103untru. Am \u00eencercat s\u0103 opunem rezisten\u021b\u0103 ca s\u0103 p\u0103str\u0103m un mic buzunar de aer \u00een jurul gurii. Totul a durat c\u00e2teva zeci de secunde. S-a oprit avalan\u0219a \u0219i era complet \u00eentuneric, nu se mai vedea nimic, de\u0219i eram unul l\u00e2ng\u0103 altul \u00een cort… cortul are 2 metri l\u0103\u021bime \u0219i eram 3 oameni. Am strigat la colegii mei, la Peter \u0219i la Marius, nu sa mai auzit nimic. Era lini\u0219te, \u00eentuneric. Tot ce am putut s\u0103 fac a fost s\u0103 caut c\u00e2te de repede \u00een buzunarul de la piept unde \u021bineam briceagul. \u0218tiam c\u0103 asta este procedura \u00een caz de avalan\u0219\u0103 peste cort. Am g\u0103sit \u00een c\u00e2teva secunde briceagul, sim\u021beam c\u0103 se termin\u0103 aerul din buzunarul de aer din jurul capului. Am scos briceagul, am t\u0103iat cortul. Deasupra mea era cam un metru \u0219i ceva de z\u0103pad\u0103. Eu, cum m\u0103 ap\u0103sase a\u0219a peste picioare, eram ciuci pur \u0219i simplu, a trebuit s\u0103 \u00eemping pur \u0219i simplu prin z\u0103pad\u0103 ca s\u0103 ies afar\u0103. Am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ies, cu o m\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een fa\u021b\u0103, m\u00e2na cu briceagul. Am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ies afar\u0103 s\u0103 m\u0103 ridic \u00een picioare. Am calculat c\u0103 am \u00eempins cam cu 300 kg. Eram foarte \u00eenc\u0103rcat cu adrenalin\u0103. Am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ies, s\u0103 respir. \u00cen momentul \u00een care eu am ie\u0219it \u0219i Peter a reu\u0219it s\u0103 ias\u0103 din partea de jos a cortului unde era ceva mai pu\u021bin\u0103 z\u0103pad\u0103. \u0218i dup\u0103 ce am ie\u0219it, am \u00eenceput s\u0103 s\u0103p\u0103m \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103, s\u0103 \u00eel eliber\u0103m \u0219i pe Marius. Eu am \u00eenceput s\u0103 sap dup\u0103 lopat\u0103, numai c\u0103 dup\u0103 un minut mi s-au alb\u0103strit m\u00e2inile de la frig. Noroc c\u0103 Peter \u0219i-a g\u0103sit m\u0103nu\u0219ile. Am reu\u0219it s\u0103 g\u0103sim lopata, s\u0103-l scoatem pe Marius. Marius era ok, el a fost pu\u021bin protejat \u00eentre noi. Apoi, am scos bocancii care erau foarte importan\u021bi pentru noi pentru a putea cobor\u00ee de acolo, de la aproape 7.000 de metri. Din cauz\u0103 c\u0103 era t\u00e2rziu n-am putut pleca chiar \u00een momentul acela, era sear\u0103. Am s\u0103pat o grot\u0103 \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103, am stat ghemuit a\u0219a fiecare cam pe un metru , am sta ghemui\u021bi toat\u0103 noaptea. La u\u0219a grotei am f\u0103cut o u\u0219\u0103 din cea am reu\u0219it s\u0103 salv\u0103m din podeaua cortului pe care a trebuit s\u0103 \u00eel t\u0103iem ca s\u0103 ne recuper\u0103m echipamentul. Iar diminea\u021ba, am renun\u021bat, evident, la aceast\u0103 ascensiune \u0219i am pornit \u00eenapoi spre tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 unde am ajuns ieri cu bine (n.r. luni, 10 martie).<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eu am fost sub un metru de z\u0103pada care te apas\u0103 cu peste 100 kg. Eram pur \u0219i simplu \u00eenconjura\u021bi, \u00eengloba\u021bi \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103 \u0219i dac\u0103 nu am fi avut briceagul, pentru c\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 tai p\u00e2nza cortului, nu ai cum s\u0103 ie\u0219i. Nu mi s-a mai \u00eent\u00e2mplat nici mie, nici lui Marius, nici lui Peter. \u00cempreun\u0103 cred c\u0103 avem peste 50 de ani de expedi\u021bii \u00een Himalaya sau 60, doar c\u0103 fix pe acest munte, acum 13 ani, s-a mai \u00eent\u00e2mplat ceva asem\u0103n\u0103tor. 2 corturi au fost acoperite de avalan\u0219\u0103 pe ruta clasic\u0103, la o altitudine asem\u0103n\u0103toare, la 6.000 m. O alpinist\u0103 german\u0103 a reu\u0219it s\u0103 fac\u0103 acela\u0219i lucruri ca \u0219i noi, avea briceagul \u0219i l-a salvat pe colegul ei spaniol. Ceilal\u021bi doi alpini\u0219ti spanioli din cel\u0103lalt cort care, nu \u0219tiu, probabil n-au avut briceag sau nu au \u0219tiut ce s\u0103 fac\u0103, nu i-au mai g\u0103sit, au r\u0103mas sub z\u0103pad\u0103, i-au g\u0103sit foarte t\u00e2rziu.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nu am stat foarte mult s\u0103 ne g\u00e2ndim. Riscurile au devenit mult prea mari, de neacceptat. Din cauza rutei care nu ofer\u0103 posibilit\u0103\u021bi foarte bune de a-\u021bi proteja tab\u0103ra \u0219i din cauza vremii care nu este potrivit\u0103 pentru o rut\u0103 ca asta. Ninge mult prea mult. Acum vreo dou\u0103 s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2ni c\u00e2nd am fost la aceea\u0219i altitudine era o z\u0103pad\u0103 tare perfect\u0103 pentru \u00eenaintare \u0219i siguran\u021b\u0103. Acum, condi\u021biile s-au schimbat, a\u0219a c\u0103 \u021bin\u00e2nd cont de cele \u00eent\u00e2mplate \u0219i de prognoza de vreme, am decis s\u0103 oprim expedi\u021bia. Riscurile sunt nejustificat de mari \u0219i prefer\u0103m s\u0103 ne \u00eentoarcem acas\u0103.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Scris de: Bianca \u0218omlea<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Expedi\u021bie \u00een premier\u0103, oprit\u0103 \u00een urma unei avalan\u0219e. Alpini\u0219tii rom\u00e2ni Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu \u0219i Marius Gane, al\u0103turi de alpinistul slovac Peter…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16,"featured_media":6227,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1817,41,37],"tags":[2800,2799,1026,534,525,988,1332,2801,1331,2802],"yoast_head":"\nCurs\u0103 contra-cronometru pentru supravie\u021buire \u00een Himalaya. M\u0103rturiile lui Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu - Outdoor Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2021\/05\/13\/cursa-contra-cronometru-pentru-supravietuire-in-himalaya-marturiile-lui-horia-colibasanu\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Curs\u0103 contra-cronometru pentru supravie\u021buire \u00een Himalaya. M\u0103rturiile lui Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu - Outdoor Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Expedi\u021bie \u00een premier\u0103, oprit\u0103 \u00een urma unei avalan\u0219e. 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