{"id":9711,"date":"2023-06-15T17:46:50","date_gmt":"2023-06-15T17:46:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/?p=9711"},"modified":"2023-06-15T17:51:48","modified_gmt":"2023-06-15T17:51:48","slug":"interviu-gabriel-baicus-inainte-de-expeditia-pe-k2-acolo-esti-la-mana-naturii","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2023\/06\/15\/interviu-gabriel-baicus-inainte-de-expeditia-pe-k2-acolo-esti-la-mana-naturii\/","title":{"rendered":"INTERVIU Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219, \u00eenainte de expedi\u021bia pe K2: Acolo e\u0219ti la m\u00e2na naturii"},"content":{"rendered":"

Acolo e\u0219ti la m\u00e2na naturii, spune Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219 care pleac\u0103 vineri spre Pakistan, \u00eentr-o expedi\u021bie pe v\u00e2rful K2, al doilea cel mai \u00eenalt munte din lume. F\u0103r\u0103 \u0219erpa\u0219i \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 oxigen suplimentar, escaladarea va fi o nou\u0103 provocare pentru alpinistul care anul trecut a reu\u0219it s\u0103 urce dou\u0103 v\u00e2rfuri de peste 8.000 de metri \u00een 24 de ore, f\u0103r\u0103 \u00eentoarcere \u00een tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103. Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219 a vorbit, \u00eentr-un interviu pentru Ski&Outdoor Magazine, despre expedi\u021bie, despre temerile legate de aceasta \u0219i despre proiectul s\u0103u Himalaya 148.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Programul expedi\u021biei pe K2<\/h3>\n

Reporter: C\u00e2nd \u00eencepe expedi\u021bia \u0219i c\u00e2t va dura?<\/em><\/p>\n

Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219:<\/em> Expedi\u021bia e din 17 iunie diminea\u021ba p\u00e2n\u0103 pe 2 august. Estimez cumva \u00eencercarea de urcare a v\u00e2rfului undeva la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de iulie, dup\u0103 20 iulie.<\/p>\n

Va fi prima dat\u0103 drume\u021bia p\u00e2n\u0103 la tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103, implic\u0103 acel zbor cu un avion mai mic din Islamabad c\u0103tre Skardu, apoi o s\u0103 mergem cu jeep-urile c\u00e2t o s\u0103 ne permit\u0103 drumul de acces. Apoi o s\u0103 mergem la picior \u0219i o s\u0103 ne aclimatiz\u0103m p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103, iar acolo am \u0219i op\u021biunea de a urca pe un v\u00e2rf de 6.000 de metri, depinde foarte mult de condi\u021biile \u00een care se afl\u0103, \u0219i apoi aclimatizarea propriu-zis\u0103 pe muntele K2.<\/p>\n

R.:<\/em> Cine mai particip\u0103 la expedi\u021bie?<\/p>\n

G.B.:<\/em> Din Rom\u00e2nia o s\u0103 merg singur. Bucuria mea \u0219i oportunitatea asta cumva am creat-o cu echipa mea din Nepal, \u00een sensul \u00een care \u0219i ei vin, colaboratorii mei. Eu, pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 expedi\u021biile pe care le fac pentru mine, ofer \u0219i consultan\u021b\u0103 oamenilor care vor s\u0103 fac\u0103 expedi\u021bii \u00een mun\u021bIi \u00eenal\u021bi \u0219i \u00een Nepal am o companie local\u0103 cu care lucrez pe expedi\u021bii \u00een Nepal \u0219i s-a nimerit de data aceasta s\u0103 vin\u0103 \u0219i ei \u00een Pakistan, pentru c\u0103 au clien\u021bii lor. Acesta e un mare plus, \u00een sensul \u00een care merg cu oameni pe care \u00eei cunosc, chiar dac\u0103 merg singur, pentru c\u0103 abordarea acestui munte o s\u0103 fie f\u0103r\u0103 suportul \u0219erpa\u0219ilor \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 oxigen suplimentar, o s\u0103 am doar serviciul de tab\u0103r\u0103 de baz\u0103 inclus.<\/p>\n

\u201eS\u0103 \u00eemi intind limitele \u0219i mai mult\u201d<\/h3>\n

R.:<\/em> K2 e un munte \u201egreu\u201d, de ce f\u0103r\u0103 \u0219erpa\u0219i \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 oxigen? E o provocare?<\/p>\n

G.B.:<\/em> Sigur, sigur e o provocare. \u0218i eu uneori m\u0103 \u00eentreb de ce. Este o provocare cu mine, cumva dup\u0103 izb\u00e2nda Everest \u0219i Lhotse am zis s\u0103 \u00eemi \u00eentind \u0219i mai mult limitele, c\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 la urm\u0103 despre asta e treaba. Nu are leg\u0103tur\u0103 cu lumea exterioar\u0103, are leg\u0103tur\u0103 cu lumea interioar\u0103, lumea mea \u0219i cumva de asta am setat acest obiectiv m\u0103re\u021b ca s\u0103 \u00eemi \u00eentind limitele \u0219i mai mult. Sunt o persoan\u0103 vis\u0103toare, \u00eemi place s\u0103 visez \u0219i \u00eemi place s\u0103 m\u0103 ghidez dup\u0103 obiective, cum vezi \u00eendr\u0103zne\u021be.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u201eTeama de ce nu pot controla eu\u201d<\/h3>\n

R.:<\/em> Care e cea mai mare team\u0103 legat\u0103 de aceast\u0103 expedi\u021bie? Exist\u0103 o astfel de team\u0103?<\/p>\n

G.B.:<\/em> Cu siguran\u021b\u0103, am o team\u0103 \u0219i p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00eentr-un punct eu consider c\u0103 teama este bun\u0103. Este bun\u0103 pentru c\u0103 ea nu te impinge s\u0103 faci lucruri nebune\u0219ti, cumva te ancoreaz\u0103 \u00een realitate. Exist\u0103 o team\u0103, o team\u0103 e, cum s\u0103 zic, lipsa de control a elementelor care nu \u021bin de mine, cum ar fi muntele. Muntele este viu, \u0219i muntele K2 este foarte imprevizibil din cauza condi\u021biilor meteorologice, \u0219i teama de aici vine, teama de ce nu pot controla eu.<\/p>\n

Sunt trei sec\u021biuni pe acest munte mai complicate \u0219i cea mai tem\u0103toare este sec\u021biunea de la Bottleneck, care este la 8.200 de metri \u0219i acolo e un serac foarte mare, se trece pe sub el. Acolo e\u0219ti la m\u00e2na naturii, e foarte imprevizibil \u0219i de aici se genereaz\u0103 \u0219i teama aceasta. Adic\u0103 lucrurile ce \u021bin doar de mine, de anduran\u021b\u0103, de capacitatea de aclimatizare, se pot comtrola, dar sunt aceste elemente care nu \u021bin de mine. Fire\u0219te c\u0103 o s\u0103-mi ascult corpul, nu o s\u0103 m\u0103 supun unui risc mai mare dec\u00e2t cel la care m\u0103 supun deja.<\/p>\n

Proiectul Himalaya 148<\/h3>\n

R.:<\/em> Expedi\u021bia pe K2 este parte dintr-un proiect mai mare \u201eHimalaya 148\u201d, prin care \u021bi-ai propus s\u0103 escaladezi 14 v\u00e2rfuri de peste 8.000 de metri. Al c\u00e2telea este acesta?<\/p>\n

G.B.:<\/em> Acesta ar fi al patrulea. A fost anul trecut Everestul \u0219i Lhotse, primul cel mai \u00eenalt \u0219i apoi al patrulea, \u0219i \u00een 2021 urcat pe Manaslu. Era prima dat\u0103 c\u00e2nd ajungeam la 8.000 de metri \u0219i atunci am mers f\u0103r\u0103 \u0219erpa\u0219i, dar Manaslu e un optmiar mai scund \u0219i e mare diferen\u021b\u0103 de la 8.100 la 8.600, c\u00e2t are K2.<\/p>\n

Everestul \u0219i K2 sunt dou\u0103 v\u00e2rfuri enigmatice cumva \u0219i, \u00eentr-adev\u0103r, a\u0219 fi foarte bucuros s\u0103 pot s\u0103 ajung pe K2. S\u0103 fluture steagul Rom\u00e2niei acolo \u0219i ar fi un sentiment foarte pl\u0103cut. De multe ori nici nu realizezi c\u00e2nd ajungi acolo realizarea pe care ai f\u0103cut-o.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Stil de via\u021b\u0103<\/h3>\n

R.:<\/em> Au fost preg\u0103tiri pentru expedi\u021bia pe K2?<\/p>\n

G.B.:<\/em> Chestia este c\u0103 o v\u0103d mai degrab\u0103 ca un stil de via\u021b\u0103, ca o preg\u0103tire continu\u0103. Mizez foarte mult pe experien\u021ba acumulat\u0103 \u00een ace\u0219ti 6 ani de c\u00e2nd merg \u00een Himalaya. Am urcat pe mai multe v\u00e2rfuri de peste 6.000 de metri, am avut \u00eencerc\u0103ri la v\u00e2rfuri de peste 8.000 de metri \u0219i consider c\u0103 asta m\u0103 ajut\u0103 foarte mult. Psihicul conteaz\u0103 foarte mult pentru o expedi\u021bie, este drept c\u0103 \u0219i fizicul, dar psihicul\u2026 Dac\u0103 mintea te saboteaz\u0103, oric\u00e2t de puternic ai fi fizic, vei claca \u0219i mizez foarte mult pe aceast\u0103 chestie.<\/p>\n

Eu locuiesc la Bra\u0219ov de aproximativ 2 ani \u0219i acolo cumva m-am antrenat pentru expedi\u021biile trecute, pentru aceast\u0103 expedi\u021bie. Nu pot s\u0103 spun c\u0103 am avut un plan strict de antrenament. Ca dovad\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 nu am intrat \u00eenc\u0103 \u00een rol, \u00een expedi\u021bie, am multe lucruri de l\u0103sat Ok acas\u0103 \u0219i abia de c\u00e2nd ajung o s\u0103 intru \u00een rolul expedi\u021biei \u0219i o s\u0103 m\u0103 concentrez strict pe expedi\u021bie.<\/p>\n

Drume\u021bie la tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 Everest<\/h2>\n

R.:<\/em> Ce mai urmeaz\u0103 anul acesta?<\/p>\n

G.B.:<\/em> Cred c\u0103 dup\u0103 \u00eentoarcere o s\u0103 m\u0103 duc undeva la plaj\u0103 \u00een Sudul Spaniei.<\/p>\n

R.:<\/em> Din punct de vedere al provoc\u0103rilor?<\/p>\n

G.B.:<\/em> Nu am \u00eenc\u0103 ceva setat. Cel mai probabil la anul o s\u0103 fac o drume\u021bie la tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 Everest. Am ni\u0219te prieteni care doresc s\u0103 mearg\u0103 \u0219i a\u0219 merge ca \u0219i coordonator cu ei. \u00cemi place mult drume\u021bia la tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 Everest, e o zon\u0103 tare frumoas\u0103. \u00cemi place mult interac\u021biunea cu comunitatea sherpa. Chiar am aici o amulet\u0103 primit\u0103 de un preot budist pe care o s\u0103 o iau cu mine pe K2 ca s\u0103 m\u0103 protejeze de pericole \u0219i s\u0103 fie aproape. Asta ar fi a\u0219a, momentan. Multe dintre expedi\u021biile pe care le-am desf\u0103\u0219urat au venit pe parcurs, nu mi-am setat ni\u0219te obiective pe termen foarte lung.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu, primul rom\u00e2n pe K2<\/h2>\n

Horia Colib\u0103\u0219anu este singurul rom\u00e2n care a reu\u0219it p\u00e2n\u0103 acum s\u0103 urce pe v\u00e2rful K2. S-a \u00eent\u00e2mplat \u00een 2004, reu\u0219it\u0103 considerat\u0103 de mul\u021bi drept cea mai mare performan\u021b\u0103 din alpinismul rom\u00e2nesc.<\/p>\n

Cunoscut \u015fi sub denumirea de \u201eMuntele S\u0103lbatic\u201d, K2 are o altitudine de 8.611 metri. Gigantul este considerat de mul\u0163i alpini\u015fti ca fiind mai dificil de escaladat dec\u00e2t Everest, din punct de vedere tehnic. Terenul este mai accidentat, cu risc crescut de avalan\u015f\u0103 \u015fi vreme imprevizibil\u0103. Sunt condi\u0163ii care au f\u0103cut ca pe acest v\u00e2rf s\u0103 ajung\u0103 de zece ori mai pu\u0163ini alpini\u015fti dec\u00e2t pe Everest.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Despre reu\u0219ita de anul trecut a lui Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219, c\u00e2nd a urcat dou\u0103 v\u00e2rfuri de peste 8.000 de metri \u00een 24 de ore, pute\u021bi citi aici<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Scris de: C\u0103lin Pop<\/em><\/p>\n

Foto: Facebook\/Gabriel Baicus<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Acolo e\u0219ti la m\u00e2na naturii, spune Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219 care pleac\u0103 vineri spre Pakistan, \u00eentr-o expedi\u021bie pe v\u00e2rful K2, al doilea…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":23,"featured_media":9712,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1817,37],"tags":[4088,522,943,534,2780,1027,529,524,4090,4089],"yoast_head":"\nINTERVIU Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219, \u00eenainte de expedi\u021bia pe K2: Acolo e\u0219ti la m\u00e2na naturii - Outdoor Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219 pleac\u0103 vineri spre Pakistan, \u00eentr-o expedi\u021bie pe v\u00e2rful K2, al doilea cel mai \u00eenalt din lume.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/outdoor\/2023\/06\/15\/interviu-gabriel-baicus-inainte-de-expeditia-pe-k2-acolo-esti-la-mana-naturii\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"INTERVIU Gabriel B\u0103icu\u0219, \u00eenainte de expedi\u021bia pe K2: Acolo e\u0219ti la m\u00e2na naturii - 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