{"id":12020,"date":"2019-07-24T15:43:32","date_gmt":"2019-07-24T12:43:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/skipassmagazine.ro\/?p=12020"},"modified":"2019-11-06T17:25:00","modified_gmt":"2019-11-06T17:25:00","slug":"al-saptelea-varf-de-peste-8-000-de-metri-cucerit-de-alex-gavan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/2019\/07\/24\/al-saptelea-varf-de-peste-8-000-de-metri-cucerit-de-alex-gavan\/","title":{"rendered":"Al \u0219aptelea v\u00e2rf de peste 8.000 de metri cucerit de Alex G\u0103van"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Alex G\u0103van a reu\u0219it s\u0103 ating\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 a folosi oxigenul suplimentar sau porteri de altitudine, v\u00e2rful Gasherbrum 2<\/strong> de 8.035 de metri din mun\u021bii Karakorum, Pakistan<\/strong>. Ascensiunea final\u0103 a avut loc \u00een 18 iulie<\/strong>. Alpinistul a ajuns astfel la jum\u0103tatea proiectului s\u0103u de a deveni primul rom\u00e2n care cucere\u0219te toate cele 14 v\u00e2rfuri de peste 8.000 de metri din lume, f\u0103r\u0103 oxigen suplimentar.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: alexgavan.ro<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Ascensiune de 17 ore spre v\u00e2rf<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Expedi\u021bia a \u00eenceput \u00een data de 14 iunie \u0219i ar fi trebuit s\u0103 dureze aproape dou\u0103 luni. \u00cen timpul ultimei perioade de aclimatizare, la 7.000 de metri altitudine, Alex G\u0103van \u0219i echipa sa au v\u0103zut poten\u021bialul momentului \u0219i au pornit \u00een ascensiunea final\u0103 c\u0103tre v\u00e2rf care a durat 17 ore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: alexgavan.ro <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pe 10 iulie, atunci c\u00e2nd am plecat \u00eempreun\u0103 cu Don \u0219i Lotta s\u0103 stabilim tab\u0103ra trei, planul era s\u0103 dormim dou\u0103 nop\u021bi la altitudinea de 7.000 de metri \u0219i astfel s\u0103 ne finaliz\u0103m procesul de aclimatizare. Urma s\u0103 cobor\u00e2m apoi \u00een tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 pentru a ne odihni \u0219i a fi apoi \u00een form\u0103 optim\u0103 pentru ascensiunea v\u00e2rfului. Aveam la noi echipament \u0219i provizii pentru numai \u0219ase zile de stat sus pe munte. \u00cen final, cele \u0219ase zile s-au transformat \u00een nu mai pu\u021bin de unsprezece, iar ascensiunea de aclimatizare s-a transformat \u00een chiar ascensiunea final\u0103 a v\u00e2rfului. Este cea mai lung\u0103 perioad\u0103 compact\u0103 de timp pe care am petrecut-o vreodat\u0103 deasupra taberei de baz\u0103 \u00een vreo expedi\u021bie. A fost un efort extrem de dur \u0219i de intens, cu cinci nop\u021bi consecutive petrecute la peste 7.000 de metri altitudine<\/em> \u2013 Alex G\u0103van.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alex G\u0103van a avut ca parteneri de coard\u0103 \u00een aceast\u0103 expedi\u021bie pe finlandezul Lotta Hintsa \u0219i pe Don Bowie, alpinist cu peste 19 expedi\u021bii himalayene la activ \u0219i care a cucerit v\u00e2rfurie K2 (8.611 metri) \u0219i Annapurna (8081 metri) f\u0103r\u0103 oxigen suplimentar. Ei au fost \u00eens\u0103 nevoi\u021bi s\u0103 renun\u021be la ascensiunea spre v\u00e2rf, pe care o vor relua \u00een zilele urm\u0103toare. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Scris de: Bianca \u0218omlea<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Alex G\u0103van a reu\u0219it s\u0103 ating\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 a folosi oxigenul suplimentar sau porteri de altitudine, v\u00e2rful Gasherbrum 2 de 8.035…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16,"featured_media":12028,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[55],"tags":[79,80,81,82,83,84,85,86,87,88,89,90,91,92,93,94,95,96,73,75,97,76,98,99],"yoast_head":"\nAl \u0219aptelea v\u00e2rf de peste 8.000 de metri cucerit de Alex G\u0103van - Ski Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/2019\/07\/24\/al-saptelea-varf-de-peste-8-000-de-metri-cucerit-de-alex-gavan\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Al \u0219aptelea v\u00e2rf de peste 8.000 de metri cucerit de Alex G\u0103van - 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