{"id":14663,"date":"2019-12-11T14:45:05","date_gmt":"2019-12-11T14:45:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/?p=14663"},"modified":"2020-02-03T13:28:11","modified_gmt":"2020-02-03T13:28:11","slug":"teofil-vlad-alpinismul-este-o-eterna-provocare","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/2019\/12\/11\/teofil-vlad-alpinismul-este-o-eterna-provocare\/","title":{"rendered":"Teofil Vlad: Alpinismul este o etern\u0103 provocare"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

De Ziua Interna\u021bional\u0103 a Muntelui, Ski & Outdoor Magazine a stat de vorb\u0103 cu unul dintre cei mai buni alpini\u0219ti rom\u00e2ni: Teofil Vlad. Teofil Vlad, Teo cum \u00eei spun prietenii s-a n\u0103scut la Pite\u0219ti iar prima oar\u0103 a urcat pe munte \u00een urm\u0103 cu peste 20 de ani. De peste 15 ani face alpinism de performan\u021b\u0103 iar printre reu\u0219itele sale se num\u0103r\u0103 ascensiuni pe v\u00e2rfurile Everest, Pumori, Khan Tengri, Nanga Parbat  sau Gashebrum 2 din masivul Himalaya.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: Facebook \/ Teofil Vlad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: Teofil, bine ai venit la Cluj. C\u00e2nd ai avut primul contact cu\nalpinismul?<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Teofil Vlad<\/strong>:\nDe fapt, eu am \u00eenceput cu drume\u021bia montan\u0103, \u00een urm\u0103 cu peste 20 de ani. \u00cen\nprim\u0103vara anului 1999, deci acum 20 de ani, m-am c\u0103\u021b\u0103rat prima dat\u0103 pe st\u00e2nc\u0103.\nSe \u00eent\u00e2mpla la o falez\u0103 dintr-o zon\u0103 foarte pu\u021bin dezvoltat\u0103 pentru escalada pe\nvremea aceea, \u00een mun\u021bii Iezer, \u00een apropierea cabanei Cuca.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: \u0218i\napoi, ce a urmat?<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Teofil Vlad: <\/strong>Am continuat cu escalada \u00een Cheile D\u00e2mbovicioarei, Cheile Arge\u0219ului, ulterior \u00een pere\u021bi mai mari din Post\u0103varu, Bucegi, F\u0103g\u0103ra\u0219, etc. Apoi au urmat ascensiunile pe mun\u021bi mai \u00eenal\u021bi, cum ar fi mun\u021bii din Turcia, \u00een Alpi, \u00een Caucaz, Pamir, Anzi dar tot timpul eram cu g\u00e2ndul la Himalaya.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: Facebook \/ Teofil Vlad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: C\u00e2nd\na fost prima tur\u0103 \u00een Himalaya?<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Teofil Vlad: <\/strong>Prima\ntur\u0103 relevant\u0103 a fost \u00een Pakistan, \u00een masivul Karakorum, \u00een anul 2008. Atunci\nam \u00eencercat o urcare pe v\u00e2rful Gasherbrum 2 (8035m), \u00eens\u0103 nu am reu\u0219it\nascensiunea \u0219i a fost destul de frustrant. <\/em>\u00cens\u0103 5 ani mai t\u00e2rziu, \u00een 2013, am reu\u0219it s\u0103 urc un munte mult mai greu, pe un traseu care nu este clasic. A fost o expedi\u021bie format\u0103 din 5 persoane care am escaladat cel mai mare versant al v\u00e2rfului Nanga Parbat, \u00eenalt 8126 de metri. Spre bucuria mea am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ating v\u00e2rful, \u00eempreun\u0103 cu al\u021bi 3 coechipieri. Am fost primii rom\u00e2ni care au reu\u0219it s\u0103 urce v\u00e2rful pe aceast\u0103 ruta, pentru c\u0103 primul rom\u00e2n care a f\u0103cut v\u00e2rful Nanga Parbat, dar pe alt\u0103 ruta, a fost Mihai Cioroianu, \u00een 1997. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: Facebook \/ Teofil Vlad<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Pentru mine acea realizare este foarte important\u0103 fiindc\u0103 noi acolo nu am avut niciun sprijin extern, a fost o expedi\u021bie independent\u0103. Cei 4 care am urcat pe v\u00e2rf eram: Zsolt Torok, Marius Gane, Aurel S\u0103l\u0103\u0219an \u0219i cu mine. \u00cens\u0103 foarte important a fost sprijinul celui de-al 5-lea membru al expedi\u021biei, Bruno Adamcek.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: Ce\nexpedi\u021bii au urmat?<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Teofil Vlad: <\/strong>De exemplu, \u00een 2017 am fost \u00een parcul Yosemite din California, unde am urcat un traseu de referin\u021b\u0103 \u00een peretele El Capitan. Pot spune c\u0103 a fost o piatr\u0103 de \u00eencercare \u00een materie de c\u0103\u021b\u0103rare pe st\u00e2nc\u0103. A fost o urcare vertical\u0103 care a durat 5 zile, a trebuit s\u0103 dormim \u00een perete, s\u0103 c\u0103r\u0103m foarte mult echipament \u0219i provizii.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cens\u0103 de referin\u021b\u0103 pentru mine, r\u0103m\u00e2ne ascensiunea pe v\u00e2rful Pumori din Himalaya, dar sunt \u0219i alte expedi\u021bii care de\u0219i nu au fost at\u00e2t de importante au contribuit la construc\u021bia mea ca \u0219i alpinist.Dac\u0103 investe\u0219ti mult\u0103 energie, munc\u0103 \u0219i speran\u021b\u0103 \u00een visurile tale, ai mari \u0219anse s\u0103 reu\u0219e\u0219ti.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: Facebook \/ Teofil Vlad<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: Ai\navut de-a lungul anilor un mentor, sau un model \u00een alpinism?<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Teofil Vlad<\/strong>: Da, pot spune c\u0103 de-a lungul timpului m-au influen\u021bat mul\u021bi alpini\u0219ti \u0219i a\u0219 putea s\u0103 \u00eel amintesc pe Marius Gane, un bun prieten de-al meu. Un model pe care l-am admirat \u00eenc\u0103 \u00eenainte de a-l cunoa\u0219te a fost pentru mine regretatul Zsolt Torok. \u00centotdeauna mi-au pl\u0103cut oamenii care au venit cu ideea \u201chai s\u0103 facem ceva ce nu a mai f\u0103cut nimeni p\u00e2n\u0103 acum\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: Facebook \/ Teofil Vlad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: Pentru\nc\u0103 ne apropiem de anul 2020, am \u00een\u021beles c\u0103 pui la cale o expedi\u021bie \u00eempreun\u0103 cu\nVlad C\u0103pu\u0219an.<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Teofil Vlad: <\/strong>Da, ne dorim c\u0103 la anul s\u0103 urc\u0103m pe v\u00e2rful Fitz Roy din Patagonia argentinian\u0103 \u0219i obiectivul nostru  este un traseu pe un perete \u00eenalt de 1600 de metri. Patagonia este cunoscut\u0103 pentru vremea potrivnic\u0103 \u0219i imprevizibil\u0103, pentru v\u00e2nturile puternice dar \u0219i pentru frumuse\u021bea mun\u021bilor \u0219i pentru rigoarea ascensiunilor. Pentru mine conteaz\u0103 foarte mult factorul estetic \u0219i spiritual al unei ascensiuni, mai mult dec\u00e2t cota\u021bia c\u0103 \u0219i grad de dificultate. Tr\u0103irile interioare m\u0103 \u00eembog\u0103\u021besc mult mai mult dec\u00e2t orice altceva.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

De\nexemplu, anul acesta am reu\u0219it s\u0103 urc pe Everest, un munte la care am vizat de\n20 de ani. A fost realizarea unui vis \u0219i cred c\u0103 Everestul \u00eentotdeauna ofer\u0103\nnoi provoc\u0103ri. Am urcat ruta clasic\u0103 de pe versantul sudic nepalez.<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
sursa: Facebook \/ Teofil Vlad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dan Izvoreanu: Teo,\nai urcat mun\u021bi \u00eenal\u021bi, mun\u021bi la care unii doar viseaz\u0103, ce \u00ee\u021bi mai dore\u0219\u021bi, mai\nai vise ne\u00eemplinite?<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Teofil Vlad:<\/strong> Pentru mine alpinismul este o etern\u0103 provocare pentru c\u0103 vine din pasiune. Toat\u0103 via\u021b\u0103 pot g\u0103si obiective care s\u0103 m\u0103 motiveze, pe care s\u0103 mi le doresc \u0219i pe care s\u0103 le \u00eencerc cu pl\u0103cere. Pentru mine alpinismul este fascinant datorit\u0103 diversit\u0103\u021bii sale \u0219i a posibilit\u0103\u021bilor nelimitate care \u021bi le ofer\u0103.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Interviu realizat de Dan Izvoreanu<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

De Ziua Interna\u021bional\u0103 a Muntelui, Ski & Outdoor Magazine a stat de vorb\u0103 cu unul dintre cei mai buni alpini\u0219ti…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16,"featured_media":14665,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[51],"tags":[495,84,584,2890,85,2894,2895,1709,2898,2888,2892,2891,1316,2896,2900,1023,88,715,2902,89,90,245,91,2885,2893,2886,70,95,2889,569,248,2887,370,2535,161,2500,2884,2538,2751,722,99,2903,2897,2883,1724],"yoast_head":"\nTeofil Vlad: Alpinismul este o etern\u0103 provocare - Ski Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/2019\/12\/11\/teofil-vlad-alpinismul-este-o-eterna-provocare\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Teofil Vlad: Alpinismul este o etern\u0103 provocare - 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