{"id":15958,"date":"2020-02-25T10:00:10","date_gmt":"2020-02-25T10:00:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/?p=15958"},"modified":"2020-04-06T16:11:19","modified_gmt":"2020-04-06T16:11:19","slug":"siberia-experience","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/2020\/02\/25\/siberia-experience\/","title":{"rendered":"Siberia Experience"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

De\nce g\u0103se\u0219ti powder \u00een noiembrie \u00een Siberia, mai exact l\u00e2ng\u0103 lacul Baikal? Pentru\nc\u0103, \ufb01ind cel mai mare lac de ap\u0103 dulce din lume, produce multe precipita<\/strong>\u021b<\/strong>ii la sf\u00e2r\u0219it de an. Din octombrie chiar, p\u00e2n\u0103\nla sf\u00e2r\u0219it de decembrie, \u00eenceput de ianuarie, Siberia devine un loc astral. Cu temperature\nmici, -20 grade noaptea \u0219i -15\/-10  grade\nziua, z\u0103pada \u00ee\u0219i men\u021bine consisten\u021ba de la o zi la alta. \u00cen schimb, \u00een ianuarie\n\u0219i februarie, temperaturiile \ufb01ind at\u00e2t de mici, -35\/-40 de grade, lacul \u00eenghea\u021b\u0103,\nastfel precipita\u021biile sunt reduse \u0219i aerul uscat. Dar de la \ufb01nalul lui octombrie\np\u00e2n\u0103 la mijlocul lui decembrie locul este ideal.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziua\n0: Ateriz\u0103m pe aeroportul din Irkutsk \u2013 un frig de te ia tusea, nu mai povestesc\nde lipitul n\u0103rilor. Irkutsk e un aeroport la nord de Baikal, cumva izolat, la 6\nore de Moscova. Ora\u015ful nu este mic, undeva la 600.000 de locuitori, aproximativ\nc\u00e2t Bra\u015fovul, locul meu de ba\u015ftin\u0103. Mul\u0163i tineri \u015fi mult\u0103 istorie pe str\u0103zi, \u00een\ncentru mai ales. La ce frig este o bun\u0103 parte din an, sunt uimit c\u00e2t este de dinamic\nora\u015ful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

R\u00e2ul\nAngara traverseaz\u0103 Irkutskul. Cele 6 ore diferen\u0163\u0103 fa\u0163\u0103 de Rom\u00e2nia se simt \u015fi\nnu prea. \u0162in\u00e2nd cont c\u0103 soarele apune devreme, nu prea ai timp s\u0103 sim\u0163i\noboseala. Oricum, dup\u0103 c\u00e2teva poze prin pia\u0163a central\u0103 \u015fi statuia lui Alexandru\nal III-lea se face deja sear\u0103. Ne vedem la hotel pentru un bree\ufb01ng cu Konstantin,\nghidul nostrum RMGA, localnic din Irkutsk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziua 1<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Plec\u0103m spre Mamay – locul nostru pentru urm\u0103toarele zile. Cu autobuzul pe post de shuttle, \u00eencerc\u0103m s\u0103 ie\u015fim din ora\u015f. De\u015fi nu p\u0103rea, s-a dovedit a \ufb01 \u00eentins ca o zi de munc\u0103. Cu geamurile \u00eenghe\u0163ate (-25 de grade) nu vedem nimic afar\u0103, a\u015fa c\u0103 nu ne r\u0103m\u00e2ne dec\u00e2t s\u0103 mo\u0163\u0103im.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Brusc,\nma\u015fina se opre\u015fte \u015fi ne trezim la aproximativ 2 ore distan\u0163\u0103, l\u00e2ng\u0103 lacul Baikal.\nPeisajul \u015fi v\u00e2ntul \u00eenghe\u0163at fac locul foarte frumos. C\u00e2t vezi cu ochii se\n\u00eentinde un lac p\u0103zit de soarele matinal, \u00eentr-o atmosfer\u0103 rece de \u00ee\u0163i \u00eenghea\u0163\u0103 creierii.\nMamay, la aproximativ 4 ore de condus, este pe un drum forestier, ai putea\nspune la 8 km de marginea drumului. Nimic neadev\u0103rat. Doar c\u0103 sunt 8km f\u0103r\u0103\nsemnal sau vreo urm\u0103 de civiliza\u0163ie. Despre z\u0103pad\u0103 nu am cuvinte: powder de un metru,\ncopaci grei de nea, \u015fi, evident, \u00eenc\u0103 o dat\u0103, frigul. Totul este fresh, cum altfel\nla -13 grade (ceva mai cald dec\u00e2t \u00een ora\u015f). Despre cerul \u00eenstelat \u015fi servirea la\ncaban\u0103, jos p\u0103l\u0103ria. Annia, prietena ghidului nostru, ne g\u0103te\u015fte bine, bine de\ntot – ca o rusoaic\u0103, nu \u00eencape \u00eendoial\u0103. O rusoaic\u0103 t\u00e2nar\u0103, cu ochi alba\u015ftri \u015fi\ncosi\u0163e blonde. Ne prime\u015fte cu cabana cald\u0103, ciorb\u0103 de pe\u015fte, bruschete cu caviar\n\u015fi pl\u0103cinte cu varz\u0103 \u2013 bine\u00een\u0163eles \u015fi vodc\u0103. C\u00e2t despre cer, \u015fti\u0163i bancul \u0103la? Cacalu!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziua 2<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Ie\u015fim la dat. La dat pe bune \u00een powder ca la mama lui. Problema este c\u0103 ehipa nu este omogen\u0103. Majoritatea sunt pe splitboarduri, iar schiorii de data asta sunt pu\u0163in dep\u0103\u015fi\u0163i de situa\u0163ie. Ajungem s\u0103 d\u0103m totu\u015fi 1.200 verticali, \u00eentr-o zi \u00eenecat\u0103 \u00een soare \u015fi cu temperature foarte ok, -12\/-10 grade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

De\u015fi\nerau multe tururi organizate, am dat numai linii noi, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 vedem al\u0163i\nturi\u015fti. Surpriza? Mamay nici m\u0103car nu are v\u00e2rfuri mai \u00eenalte de 1.600 de m\n(cel pu\u0163in \u00een zona noastr\u0103). Z\u0103pada este foarte safe, iar ridingul printre\nmesteceni este un vis pe care numai \u00een \ufb01lme mi-l \u00eenchipuiam…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cirea\u015fa de pe tort? Banya: saun\u0103 + baie \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103. Renovat\u0103 anul trecut, este o experien\u0163\u0103 pe care ai \ufb01 prost s\u0103 o ratezi. Dup\u0103 o zi lung\u0103 de dat, un sentiment de bine \u00ee\u0163i m\u00e2ng\u00e2ie tot corpul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziua 3<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Prognoza din ziua precedent\u0103 spunea c\u0103 o s\u0103 ning\u0103. Azi, chiar a nins. Meteorologilor le-a ie\u0219it de data asta. A nins la -13 grade, iar z\u0103pada era c\u00e2t se poate de fluffy<\/em>. 35 cm \u00een mai pu\u021bin de 4 ore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cum vizibilitatea nu era cea mai bun\u0103, am ales liniile joase, printre copaci. Trecem pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 primul refugiu din Mammay. Ninge zdrav\u0103n \u0219i un grup de vreo 8 persoane este \u00een fa\u021ba noastr\u0103. La c\u00e2t\u0103 z\u0103pad\u0103 este, nu am niciun stres c\u0103 ne-ar putea toca z\u0103pada. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

O or\u0103 \u0219i jum\u0103tate ne ia s\u0103 ajungem p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een creast\u0103. Ghidul preg\u0103te\u0219te traseul la urcare s\u0103p\u00e2nd urmele \u00een zona de kick turn<\/em> cu lopata, ca s\u0103 le fie mai u\u0219or clien\u021bilor. Safe and easy, right<\/em>?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ninsoarea se \u00eente\u021be\u0219te. Sunt primele face shot<\/em>-uri pe care le dau \u0219i simt totul ca o p\u0103tur\u0103 care m\u0103 \u00eenv\u0103luie, o p\u0103tur\u0103 groas\u0103 care m\u0103 acoper\u0103 din cap p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een picioare. Este at\u00e2t de imens\u0103 z\u0103pada, c\u0103 e\u0219ti foarte aproape s\u0103 ai senza\u021bia de claustrofobie. Vizibilitatea nu se schimb\u0103, iar ghidul sugereaz\u0103 \u00eentoarcerea la caban\u0103, o idee discutabil\u0103, dar binevenit\u0103. Mult a\u0219teptatul bor\u0219 rusesc, caviarul \u0219i vodca ne sunt servite de Annia.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziua 4<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Prima faz\u0103 mi-a ie\u0219it, am reu\u0219it s\u0103 \u00eei gr\u0103besc \u0219i s\u0103 ie\u0219im la timp din caban\u0103, la ora 8. Ori c\u0103 era s\u00e2mb\u0103t\u0103 \u0219i majoritatea grupurilor au plecat, ori c\u0103 am fost matinali, cert este c\u0103 nu am g\u0103sit niciun grup pe drum.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am urcat iar spre v\u00e2rful Mammay. Urcarea pe flat light<\/em> ne-a cam \u00eengrijorat. Odat\u0103 ajuns \u00een v\u00e2rf, lacul Baikal s-a deschis spre mal \u00een toat\u0103 splendoarea lui. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am f\u0103cut dou\u0103 cobor\u00e2ri printre mesteceni \u0219i brazi. Powder<\/em>-ul era neschimbat. Din nou -15 grade \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 v\u00e2nt\u2026 este de la sine \u00een\u021beles ce runnuri<\/em> ne-au ie\u0219it. Ultima cobor\u00e2re spre caban\u0103 a fost pe un culoar de 35 de grade \u0219i z\u0103pad\u0103 gr\u0103mad\u0103. Drumul spre caban\u0103 mi l-am imaginat ca \u00een jocurile video, \u00eentr-o p\u0103dure deas\u0103 de brazi cu z\u0103pada p\u00e2n\u0103 la mijloc. Noroc c\u0103 mai erau urme. Berile sunt reci, \u00een contrast cu cabana cald\u0103 \u0219i primitoare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ziua 5<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

De departe cea mai fain\u0103 zi de dat din via\u021ba mea. A fost de-a dreptul r\u0103v\u0103\u0219itor, greu de descris \u00een cuvinte, a\u0219a c\u0103 nu o s\u0103 m\u0103 \u00eentind. Azi noapte iar a nins. Pornim cumva sceptici, pentru c\u0103 sus era acoperit de nori. E duminic\u0103 \u0219i lumea a venit la dat, se pare c\u0103 localnicii. Planul era s\u0103 lu\u0103m linii diferite de pe aceea\u0219i fa\u021b\u0103 ca \u00een ziua precedent\u0103. Prea mult\u0103 cea\u021b\u0103, a\u0219a c\u0103 ne \u00eentoarcem. Alegem un v\u00e2rf st\u00e2ncos cu brazi pe cobor\u00e2re. Dup\u0103 o or\u0103 \u0219i jum\u0103tate ajungem pe v\u00e2rf \u0219i, din fericire, iese soarele. La fix. Linia pe care urmeaz\u0103 s\u0103 ne d\u0103m are 400 m diferen\u021b\u0103, plin\u0103 de pilows<\/em> cu z\u0103pad\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 la br\u00e2u. Nu \u0219tiu s\u0103 m\u0103 exprim ca s\u0103 spun ce a fost. Aveam pielea de g\u0103in\u0103.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Urc\u0103m iar, alegem un run<\/em> \u00een p\u0103dure, o p\u0103dure deas\u0103 de brazi. Sunt -10 grade. G\u0103sim un culoar care ne scoate chiar \u00een drumul spre caban\u0103. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seara ne-o petrecem la banya<\/em>: sauna cu t\u0103v\u0103lit, la propriu, \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103. La cin\u0103, Annia ne a\u0219teapt\u0103 cu pl\u0103cint\u0103 cu cire\u0219e.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziua 6<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen timpul nop\u021bii continu\u0103 s\u0103 ning\u0103. Diminea\u021b\u0103 nu ne \u00eentindem mult \u0219i \u00eei d\u0103m rapid pe foci.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vizibilitatea nu este str\u0103lucit\u0103. Dar e foarte pl\u0103cut la c\u00e2t de puternic ninge. Pentru c\u0103 plec\u0103m devreme, suntem iar primii pe potec\u0103 \u0219i batem urme \u00een z\u0103pada proasp\u0103t\u0103, cu un efort considerabil. \u00cen urma ghidului, m\u0103 afund \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103, nu \u00eemi v\u0103d splitboardul. Se pare c\u0103 a nins 70 cm peste powderul<\/em> deja mare din ziua precedent\u0103. Doar c\u0103 la temperaturi diferite. Astfel, s-a depus un strat mai dens. Rezultatul, \u00een pante de peste 30 de grade, stratul superior nu a f\u0103cut cine \u0219tie ce aderen\u021b\u0103, a\u0219a c\u0103 alunec\u0103 (nu mai mult de 2-3 metri) la \u00eenc\u0103rcare \u00een sarcin\u0103. Nu a fost periculos. Vizibilitatea a fost destul de bun\u0103. Partea magic\u0103? Z\u0103pada \u0219i panta au fost perfecte, poate pu\u021bin prea mare (dac\u0103 \u00eemi este cu putin\u021b\u0103 s\u0103 zic a\u0219a ceva) pentru boardul meu de 158 cm. Dac\u0103 te opreai, de\u0219i panta era mare, era o provocare s\u0103 porne\u0219ti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

O \u00eent\u00e2mplare la care nu m-am g\u00e2ndit p\u00e2n\u0103 atunci: la un moment dat cei din grup s-au oprit tu\u0219ind. Situa\u021bia era destul de sufocant\u0103. Norii copacilor erau peste v\u00e2rful br\u0103du\u021bilor. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i ghidul s-a speriat, credea c\u0103 ne surprinde din spate vreo avalan\u0219\u0103. Dup\u0103 10-15 secunde, treaba era clar\u0103: \u00een viraje, face shot-urile<\/em> erau din alt\u0103 galaxie de mari. Un nor de z\u0103pad\u0103 \u00eenv\u0103luia riderul la fiecare viraj. Nu e de mirare c\u0103 \u00een Japonia se folosesc boarduri<\/em> p\u00e2n\u0103 la 2 metri lungime, spune Gordon, un alt coleg din Australia. C\u0103 tot vorbim de colegi, Dell era din Utah: un dependent de z\u0103pad\u0103. A spus c\u0103 a\u0219a z\u0103pad\u0103 nu a experimentat niciodat\u0103 \u00een Utah.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ziua 7<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Cu p\u0103rere de r\u0103u, chiar foarte r\u0103u, ne-am \u00eentors \u00een Irkutsk. Lu\u0103m cina cu Konstantin \u0219i ne \u00eentindem la un bar p\u00e2n\u0103 la 4 diminea\u021ba, c\u00e2nd avem \u0219i zborul. Mai mult mahmuri dec\u00e2t treji, ajungem la avionul spre Moscova.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Descoper\u0103 mai multe destina\u021bii de vis \u00een revistele Ski Magazine \u0219i Outdoor Magazine. Le g\u0103se\u0219ti aici<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Text \u0219i poze: Marius Str\u0103til\u0103<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

De ce g\u0103se\u0219ti powder \u00een noiembrie \u00een Siberia, mai exact l\u00e2ng\u0103 lacul Baikal? Pentru c\u0103, \ufb01ind cel mai mare lac…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16,"featured_media":15965,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[46],"tags":[3703,834,4306,366,3695,3697,3696,3698,3705,810,93,3701,70,383,1350,3704,332,3699,3702,117,3694,161,2500,118,662,3700,4305,234],"yoast_head":"\nSiberia Experience - Ski Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ski-outdoor.ro\/ski\/2020\/02\/25\/siberia-experience\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Siberia Experience - Ski Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"De ce g\u0103se\u0219ti powder \u00een noiembrie \u00een Siberia, mai exact l\u00e2ng\u0103 lacul Baikal? 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